ECMlink 3rd gear pull log

[daren_p]

Found this on the net,
Volts A/F ratio

.1 17:1
.2 16.5
.3 16:1
.4 15.4
.5 14.9
.6 14.4
.7 13.8
.8 13.2
.9 12.7
.985 12.1

Defently not an accurate chart, well atleast not for us. NB O2 sensor readings don't really mean much as far as comparisionas go. Your own sensor should be fairly consistant if you want to convert a NB reading to an approx WB but someone else with the same sensor (ie both 1g sensors, etc) will probably not get the same NB voltage for the same WB reading. Then I believe typically 1g vs 2g sensors read different as well. Personally .94 NB gives me about 10:1, something like .90 for 11:1, but this won't mean much for someone else.

 

[LandoAWD]

Found this on the net,
Volts A/F ratio

.1 17:1
.2 16.5
.3 16:1
.4 15.4
.5 14.9
.6 14.4
.7 13.8
.8 13.2
.9 12.7
.985 12.1

Which is opposite of what your seeing correct?

Kevin Jewer and some others had this discussion a while back about the variances noted above. I'm "old school" and see .94 or richer as "rich" on a 1g, but don't put a ton of stock into that number.

Ok turned on the WB02 view didn't see it before, the 8:1 I was speaking of is the af est,

It's a hell of an estimate, no?



I'll bump the sliders on the 4.5 and 5k, add a bit of timing lower down and re-log. I know I've had shit for luck with much timing up top.

I really think this MAFT does wonky shit with Link.

 

[Rob10_99]

Yeah I figured as much with the NB voltage, but its somewhat accurate still. I remember something on this a couple years ago as well, something like .92+ being a safezone if your pushing your luck with NB tuning =)

 

[LandoAWD]

Bit more timing down low, a nice low RPM start, and a smidge of fuel up top...

Felt good, TBH.

 

[LandoAWD]

New little lazy 2nd-3rd pull

I've added in fuel over 5k, but everytime the narrowband 02 hits below .86 or .88, knock comes on. Add even more fuel? I can't pull too much more timing at this point.

Thoughts? Pump not keeping up?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

It's kinda weird how your Front O2v goes from .86 @ 11.8 to .84 @10.7afr as you actually got richer according to your WBO2 but according to your NB you got leaner.

That doesn't really make me want to believe in your WB02 at all...

I'd still richen it up from 5k on. Still looks like that is where you get the knock. I'd take your fuel additions from 6.6 from 5k up to about 10.5. You need to make an extreme change to see a large difference in AFR and knock. Once you eliminate it then you can bring the sliders down till it knocks. If you raise the slider and take a pull and nothing changes, then you are either running out of pump or injector (which you're not).

I compared your 9/29 log to the 10/23 log and it looks like you only changed the fueling from 5.1 - 6.6 That's 1.5% and it had no effect on your AFR...

 

[LandoAWD]

it looks like you only changed the fueling from 5.1 - 6.6 That's 1.5% and it had no effect on your AFR...

This is exactly what I needed. Target AF on v2.5 was simple for tuning-tards like me to comprehend, but I didn't realize these were simple percentage increases!

I'll change them on the way home.

I've all but given up on the WB.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I also noticed you're in the Negative on the MAF COMP table. Instead of upping the fuel on the fuel table you can go more positive on the MAF Comp table and achieve the same results. Because unless you've modified the stock fuel map via direct access, then the afr you should be getting with the fuel sliders at 0 should be around 9.5-10.0. This is if everything is setup on the MAF Table as well as the global/deadtimes set correctly. With the fuel sliders in the +, you should be even richer than that!

If you think about it, you're taking away air on the MAF Comp table. Which in turn takes away some fueling. Then you're richening back up with the fuel table. Pretty much cancels out any adjustment you just made.

This is how I get my AFR to line up to the fuel table while spraying meth. I may have the most awesome settings for idle and cruise but as soon as I mash the throttle I'd get a 9.5afr when the meth kicks on (fuel table set to 11.5). I could get into the fuel map and change the values to be leaner, but I'd rather have the wbo2 read what's in the fuel map. I could also lean out the global till the WOT AFR reads correctly but then the Idle and Cruise would be way off. So I opted to tell the ECU it's seeing less air at wot.

I'd make some minor adjustments on both the MAF & Fuel tables and see what works best for you. Minor changes to the MAF comp table shouldn't affect what load row you end up on in the end. Especially if you go back towards the positive with it.

Hope you get it to work!! I just made some minor "Winter" adjustments to mine last night and it felt like a totally different car! 3rd gear went by really quick!!

 

[JeffGST]

This does not look like a fueling issue, but more like a base timing issue. You are heavily negative on the airflow sliders which would lead me to believe that you have a boost leak after the GMAF. Was boost set at 26 PSI on this log? I believe the fuel pump would have no problem providing the proper amount of fuel pressure to the rail at this boost level, especially since your voltage at redline is still a healthy 13.6V.

Please verify where base timing is set at and repost. I am going to assume that base timing is advanced too much and you are seeing much higher timing then is posted in the log.

 

[LandoAWD]

BLT is negative to more air than I push.

I'll re-re-verify the base timing.

Boost is right at 24-25lbs.


Any logic to MAFComp and fuel percentage numbers in Link? Add 5% to MAFComp and take away 5% from the fuel sliders type deal?

 

[LandoAWD]

Update: V3 is in the car now and timing should be addressed this weekend.

Pull and cruise log attached.

Just looking for initial feedback on the v.3 reconfig. Boost set at 20psi.

 

[LandoAWD]

Update: Retuned v.3 for the loss of the MAFT, dropped boost to 16lbs for WOT testing, installed Tial BOV and putzed around with the FMIC piping...

...a no knock run? WTF

Cruise and WOT attached.

BoostEST is still way high, so I need to pull out some airflow.

 

[LandoAWD]

Minor tweaking done, airflow still inflated (running about 25 psi). Knock is more under control, at least.

Thoughts? I'd love input on spool-up timing/afr to get a bit quicker spool.

My rad cap decided to untwist itself after this pull...scared teh everliving hell out of me.