My 90 TSI Auto-X build

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Not sure if this is in the right section, posting all my stuff so I can have recommendations and help. Move to appropriate forum please.

Ok so I have a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD, bought it with 180k on the clock. Car was totally stock so I got to work...
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Ran into a few problems..
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Progress so far
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14b with 7cm housing
Ported Evo III mani
Victory performance o2 dump
Hacked MAS and airbox
K&N filter
EGT gauge
Boost gauge
Eprom ECU
Solid shifter bushings in and out
KYB struts
MIM wheels with 215/45/17 Bridgestone Potenza tires
Walbro 190
MBC@15psi
Rebuilt head
Balance shafts eliminated
ARP headstuds
Metal headgasket
Kevlar timing belt
ACT 2100

I want to build a auto-x car, here are the mods I want in the end

ANY recommendations or ideas please feel free to throw them out.

3" custom tbe with magnaflow muffler(ideas?)
fp68hta
660cc injectors
DSMLink and speed density
4" intake
Short route FMIC
Tial BOV
Coilovers(still need the hypercoil info)
strut and sway bars
Drilled/Slotted rotors
Stainless brake lines
Polyurethane motor mounts
GM 3" MAS
Jacks basic transmission rebuild
FP2 cams
WBO2
Tires 235/45/17(Bridgestone RE-01R)
maybe 245/40/17 depending on fitment.

 

[DWR-DSM]

What clutch are u going to use?

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

What clutch are u going to use?

I have a ACT 2100 right now but I haven't been hearing too many good things about ACT lately which is weird cause I ran a 2600 in my Evo without problems..

 

[RMawddsm]

Well it looks like you're undecided if you want to go fast around corners or in a straight line.

The absolutely biggest I'd go on an autox car would be the E3B16G or a FP3052 (but that's a autox/road race crossover) or else you're never going to spool (I'm currently running the T28).

As for the inter-cooler I'd go with a liquid to air inter-cooler, they have a better efficiency and they don't block your radiator.

A 3" GM MAF won't be needed, I'm planning on running one just to alleviate the need to recirculate with my LAIC setup. You're not really going to see anything gained form doing this mod other than being able to blow off to atmo.

What I would suggest doing is first spend all of your money on a suspension setup, the best way that I've seen to balance cars is light springs in the front and heavy in the back (I don't remember the exact weights but they allow you to power through turns, I'll have to look again) the best thing for auto cross is to dominate the stock-ish class before you ad a bunch of go fast parts and try to beat the vetts and vipers.

Edit: I've been running the 2600 and it holds true

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Why do you want to use a fp68hta for auto-x ing? By the time it spools you'll need to be on the brakes to go into a turn. Plus I think 660's are pretty small for such a huge turbo. I'd recommend any garden variety 16g with a good flowing exhaust on a moderate boost level. You'll want quick spoolup.

 

[DSM_PWR]

Why do you want to use a fp68hta for auto-x ing? By the time it spools you'll need to be on the brakes to go into a turn. Plus I think 660's are pretty small for such a huge turbo. I'd recommend any garden variety 16g with a good flowing exhaust on a moderate boost level. You'll want quick spoolup.

The FP68HTA would be perfect for autocross..

an Evo 16g with an HTA wheel.... that can push 47lbs min...

Whats not to like

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Why do you want to use a fp68hta for auto-x ing? By the time it spools you'll need to be on the brakes to go into a turn. Plus I think 660's are pretty small for such a huge turbo. I'd recommend any garden variety 16g with a good flowing exhaust on a moderate boost level. You'll want quick spoolup.

I want a bigger faster spooling turbo, and I'm over the 16g everyone runs it. If anything I'll go hybrid but I'm not going with a 16g

And I don't know whats wrong with 660's, people are running 660's with a 20G. And the FP86HTA is just a 16G with a HTA wheel like DSM PWR said..

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Looks tits to me
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 68HTA Turbocharger for DSM

 

[DSM_PWR]

.....And the FP86HTA is just a 16G with a HTA wheel like DSM PWR said..

Acutally the FP86HTA is a 35r

Your talking about the FP68HTA

Im betting TuRBoTaLooN thought you were talking about the 35r

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Oops , typo!

 

[RMawddsm]

The 16g is tried and true in the autocross world because it works, you're not going to be getting awesome times with a turbo that spools too late for you to use it. Plus you have to remember what class you're running in. If you follow strict guidelines for the classes you can dominate with just some suspension upgrades, well and great driving skills. Some classes don't allow turbo upgrades. What association/class will you be running in so we can get a better idea of what your limitations are.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Acutally the FP86HTA is a 35r

Your talking about the FP68HTA

Im betting TuRBoTaLooN thought you were talking about the 35r

Yup. But the FP68HTA (they need a better name here, seriously) sounds like a good candidate.

 

[RMawddsm]

OH ok, I was looking at the FP86 not 68, yea, that looks like a decent setup, let us know how that one goes (might swap that into my car once I hear back)

 

[DSM_PWR]

I believe FP does upgrades on existing turbos...

So you could probably just send in your Evo III and have them put in the HTA wheels

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I believe FP does upgrades on existing turbos...

So you could probably just send in your Evo III and have them put in the HTA wheels

I have a 14b with a 7cm housing

And this car is also going to be my DD so a air/water intercooler wouldn't be worth the hassle for me.. I also do quite a bit of canyon driving, much more than auto-x.

And I'm guessing I would be in the CS class?

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I emailed FP, still waiting to hear back from them.

 

[RMawddsm]

I know the setup that I'm going with for a water to air intercooler should be good for DD, the basic setup would be Icebox/reservoir for when I do go racing with a radiator/heat exchanger for street use. I've heard good things, but I will post how well it works when I've had it for a while. Then again I'm in Colorado so the temperatures are below 50* 6 months out of the year. Plus I like the idea of having an intake system that has <2' of piping.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I know the setup that I'm going with for a water to air intercooler should be good for DD, the basic setup would be Icebox/reservoir for when I do go racing with a radiator/heat exchanger for street use. I've heard good things, but I will post how well it works when I've had it for a while. Then again I'm in Colorado so the temperatures are below 50* 6 months out of the year. Plus I like the idea of having an intake system that has <2' of piping.

Well lemme know how it works for you and I'll look into it.

 

[YOOOO]

The horsepower mods are nice but won't do much to improve your times on an auto-x course and will put you in a much harder class, I think the cams alone will do it. Do NOT get cross drilled/slotted rotors as these will only hurt brake cooling and performance. Blanks should be fine, go slotted if you like the look and don't mind wearing your pads out more quickly. Stainless steel lines are a good idea. Didn't see what set of pads you are using, this will give you the biggest increase in brake performance. I recommend Hawk HPS +. Coilovers are nice but probably overkill. Since you're going all out the best things you can do for auto-x is fit the fattest stickiest tires you can, get a good set of swaybars, and replace those worn out bushings to reduce steering play.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

The horsepower mods are nice but won't do much to improve your times on an auto-x course and will put you in a much harder class, I think the cams alone will do it. Do NOT get cross drilled/slotted rotors as these will only hurt brake cooling and performance. Blanks should be fine, go slotted if you like the look and don't mind wearing your pads out more quickly. Stainless steel lines are a good idea. Didn't see what set of pads you are using, this will give you the biggest increase in brake performance. I recommend Hawk HPS +. Coilovers are nice but probably overkill. Since you're going all out the best things you can do for auto-x is fit the fattest stickiest tires you can, get a good set of swaybars, and replace those worn out bushings to reduce steering play.

How wide could I go with tires? I still need an idea on coilovers for a decent price...

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

So I installed my new slave cylinder because my other one went bad and I went to bleed the line and noticed something was wrong... My clutch fork somehow broke in half from being pushed by my slave cylinder and it was causing my slave cylinder to over extend and pop, so now I have to drop my tranny I guess...

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[t25fury]

My clutch fork somehow broke in half from being pushed by my slave cylinder and it was causing my slave cylinder to over extend and pop, so now I have to drop my tranny I guess...

quite common on the 1gens, upgrade to the 2g forks, they are stronger

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Pretty sure I'm gonna buy one from Jacks transmission, not gonna take my chances of a 2g one "maybe" holding up. Pretty mad about this, now I'm out of a car until its fixed...

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I haven't posted in this thread in a little while but I thought I'd give an update, I got the tranny dropped and got the clutch fork out etc and changed it but in the process of all this I found out I bought a ebay 7cm housing so thats why my actuator hasn't been working correctly but I replaced it and made it to where it should hopefully work now but in the process of my car being down somehow my oil lines that go to my oil cooler got a hole rusted in them and when I went to start my car up oil started squirting everywhere so I thought I would replace the lines and fittings with this.
Fragola Push-Lite Hose & Fittings -
My only question is what size fittings do I need and how many feet of hose will I need? Any negative sides to using this? I'm open to hearing suggestions, I don't really want to replace it with OE lines though.. I want it to be a one time fix for a pretty long time.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Well I got my car running last night, its not exactly how I want it to be but it will have to do for now. I got my lines made by this shop here called CCB Racing they're pretty nice and I had to buy some more of those washers for the bolts etc and they cost me $27 for all of them it was ridiculous . But I'm pretty sure my steering rack is bad, I have a small leak and only had to add fluid once every 2-3 weeks and now I have play in my steering wheel like if I move my wheel to the right a little it will keep going straight when normally it would respond to it. Also, my brake pressure isn't staying consistent and I can't seem to figure out why, I haven't touched my brakes . As for my tranmission, since I put in the new clutch fork, master and slave cylinder my transmission shifts like butter.