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ported evo III 16G

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Where can I buy a real EvoIII 16G turbo with everything ported?
Just buy a real Evo III and bolt it on as-is; perhaps you may want a 34mm wastegate flapper installed if you're attempting to hold boost under 20psi.

The Evo's 7cm turbine housing has a larger outlet than the standard 7cm Mitsu housings, so the only possible porting you can do would be to the turbine housing inlet...and it's been proven that porting the sealing ring lip out of the housing does nothing to add to the turbo's efficiency.

You're better off spending the money you would've spent on porting to get yourself a new Evo III manifold and 7cm sealing ring.
 
Just buy a real Evo III and bolt it on as-is; perhaps you may want a 34mm wastegate flapper installed if you're attempting to hold boost under 20psi.

The Evo's 7cm turbine housing has a larger outlet than the standard 7cm Mitsu housings, so the only possible porting you can do would be to the turbine housing inlet...and it's been proven that porting the sealing ring lip out of the housing does nothing to add to the turbo's efficiency.

You're better off spending the money you would've spent on porting to get yourself a new Evo III manifold and 7cm sealing ring.

Can I buy it somewhere with the 34mm wastegate flapper? I am pretty sure they do not come with them.
 
I've read that the porting doesn't really help too. In fact if anything it would reduce the velocity of the exhaust gasses. Maybe it would help if you have a high flow tubular manifold, but I have no data to back that up.

I did have my manifold off last night to change the turbine inlet gasket to MLS, and my wheels still look great, and the turbo would spin just by blowing into the turbine inlet. I'm quite pleased with my genuine EVO III.:thumb:
 
What does clipping the wheel do? I'm going to buy the EvoIII exhaust mani and 02 housing also

I'm not sure, and I didn't have that done. I think it creates a longer leading edge on the compressor wheel to increase flow, but someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Clipping decreases lag by sacrificing top end essentially. I believe it loweres the efficency range of the turbo.

I don't see a reason to clip a 16g. It already spools fast. It's just a little slower than a 14b.
 
No need to clip the 16g...they'll allow you everything you're looking for especially for DD'n....if you need more than the e316g isn't for you...I just got my e316g from FP on their super sale and received it in a very timely matter...only took 4 days shipped to my door step. I am installing it this evening and throwing it on the dyno...awwwww relief...

On a side note...I also have an evo3 exhaust manifold and I see where the sealing ring is to be...does anyone know where I can find some dimensions on this so I can send them to my brother at the machine shop and after work we can just throw it on?! I'm at work and not near the turbo until later...anyone have anything i can make use of...as far as dimensions go...
 
When people port out the parts for the turbo and exhaust manifold it's to remove the ring step on both ends. If you have the 7cm gasket, then port match to that
 
If you don't have a minigrinder. Or don't want to speend litterally hours porting a seal ring will work. Saves the gasked from added stress and helps keep velocity up because grinding opens the collector volume. You can do below if you're so bad off that you can't afford a mitsu ring.

On a side note...I also have an evo3 exhaust manifold and I see where the sealing ring is to be...does anyone know where I can find some dimensions on this so I can send them to my brother at the machine shop and after work we can just throw it on?! I'm at work and not near the turbo until later...anyone have anything i can make use of...as far as dimensions go...

They measure exactly like a 2" galvanizes pipe :) . I've hacked a piece and made my own seal ring. Click.
 
That details how to do a seal ring for an 16g housing if you're running a tubular manifold or a 2g manifold. The 2g manifold can just be left alone a step out to a ring that fills the 16g housign step is pretty minor to the massflow's POV. If you're going to use the 2g/1g gasket you don't need to cut the pipe to accomodate it's thickness since it will equal the inside diameter of the pipe.

If you have an evo3 manifold. Measure the depth of the housign step and gasket thickness AND manifold step. Add them up and cut your ring to that height.
 
What does clipping the wheel do? I'm going to buy the EvoIII exhaust mani and 02 housing also
Clipping is what is done to squeak a few more lb/min out of a certain compressor wheel / turbine union when you're reaching the end of the turbine's flow potential. This is normally only required when your boost pressure and airflow are at their peak.

For example, many have logged 44+lb/min with a 20G compressor wheel, but only when mated to a TD06 or 06H turbine. The larger turbine has enough flow potential to max out the 20G compressor. Now if your 20G turbo were to have a TD05H turbine, you may struggle to make more than 40lb/min due to the size of the turbine. Clipping may help you to get to 42lb/min or so without sacrificing the quick-spool of the TD05H turbine.
 
Well, Justin I've seen personally that it DOES trade flow for spool just like a larger turbine wheel does. I'm sure you're not a real advocate of clipping turbine wheels, because you also lose efficiency. Where as, with upgrading to a larger turbine wheel you trade flow for spool but don't lose the efficiency. Efficiency in the turbine is seen in how soon the wastegate has to open whena certain boost threshold is reached and how long and how much it stays open as you push the turbo. More flow out the tail pipe greatly increases flow, not just how much te turbine wheel flows itself.

And like you've said before, now-a-days we have td06sl wheels td06 wheels td06h wheels. Don't have to get a clip to get flow and spool inbetween a small wheel and a large wheel. We have much more options than we used to.

. . . Clipping is FAR cheaper however :) Upgrading the turbine wheel means new wheel/shaft assembly PLUS good machining of the turbine housing (that your average machine shop can't do.
 
slow gst said:
Can I buy it somewhere with the 34mm wastegate flapper? I am pretty sure they do not come with them.





Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 34mm Wastegate Flapper

Or if the link doesn't work just go to Forced Performance's main page and search for "flapper".





324vr4 said:
On a side note...I also have an evo3 exhaust manifold and I see where the sealing ring is to be...does anyone know where I can find some dimensions on this so I can send them to my brother at the machine shop and after work we can just throw it on?! I'm at work and not near the turbo until later...anyone have anything i can make use of...as far as dimensions go...





I don't have mine in front of me, but you can always call up RRE and ask them, or just make the purchase yourself for about 7 bucks (use the below link and scroll until you see the phrase "factory sealing rings").

RRE's Eclipse Turbo Upgrades
 
Opening up the ring allows you to increase the radius of the turn into the collector, which helps reduce turbulence. My EVO3 16g has the step ported and blended with the minimal material taken as possible and the turbine outlet polished, thats it. No fancy compressor inlet or outlet porting or any wastegate work what so ever. I do port the hell out of the 02 housing as that puppy is restrictive.

Clipping can be debated. I've run clipped on 2 turbos but never before and after testing. On my small 16g clipped the topend was impressive but there was lag. I don't think the tradeoff is worth it unless a record is being set on a small turbo. It would probably be the last mod I did before ditching the turbo, just to see what I could eek out on the topend.
 
Yeah, I guess the current trend is small runners again. The current EVO's have a runner diameter about the size of a 1g automatic manifold runner. I'm rocking the FP manifold now so all I do is port the ring step out on the turbine housing, and I'm done. I'll take bigger runners for more topend then smaller ones for the bottom, especially on a 16g.
 
On the hotside velocity doesn't have to trade off for flow. You can keep velocity up with smaller runners and as long as the angles are good you'll more than enough flow. Hot gases under pressure act a little different then cold gases. The best thing going for the FP manifold is the wide sweeping turns and the better shot the runners take into the turbine housing. Those make a huge difference.

BTW, my 13g exhaust manifold and 1g exhaust manifold have the exact same shape runners inside and out. The only difference is the outlet to the turbo is for a td04 and smaller.
 
The FP runners definitely are shaped better than a 2g, regardless of diameter. The gain is in the collector. Lets face it, it is a complete ripoff of the T3 turbonetics manifold for the 4g63, which ironically did have very small runner diameters.
 
LOL I've seen both. And faced it. Why some say the tnetics unit is terrible I don't know. Guess they never saw it work or seen comparison dynos to anything else I suppose. Runs good enough for several memeber to get some redonculous trap speeds. The Fp version does have the volume there if you plan on pushing everything beyond all sense of reason though :)
 
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