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My new e85 16g setup!!

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That sucks with the ticket. I should have my 2.4 fired up tonight and see if I have any major issues.
 
I just installed link late yesterday and having lots of issues with global and deadtime settings. I cant get the car to lean out no madder how much global I take out.
I was just about to reply to this when I saw your post on our forums. Hook that airflow wire back up! ROFL

We've all been there.

Thomas Dorris
 
LOL, it wasnt funny. Car was running all crappy and I didnt know what it was. Funny the car took two drives before it through a CEL.

I got the fuel trims inline with a global of -32 and deadtime of 330. LTFT Lo 4.1%, LTFT Mid .08% and Hi was at 0%.

The idle clamp feature is amazing. I activated it and car has not stalled yet. Great job on that feature Tom.
 
LOL, it wasnt funny. Car was running all crappy and I didnt know what it was. Funny the car took two drives before it through a CEL.

I got the fuel trims inline with a global of -32 and deadtime of 330. LTFT Lo 4.1%, LTFT Mid .08% and Hi was at 0%.

The idle clamp feature is amazing. I activated it and car has not stalled yet. Great job on that feature Tom.

Would you mind posting a shot of your maf settings? I tuned my 1250s and ended up at -55 global and 345 dead time. The trims were right in line. Nothing +or- %1. Thanks Eddie
 
the injector thing is weird, i have made 445hp on 750's, 518hp on 850's and 630hp on 1000's and all cars were on e85. with my car and my freinds car it was a 10% change from 93 to e85. here is a vid of our shop car making 600+hp on 1000's and e85.

Yeah, I'm at 414 on 750's, and my cousin is at 321 on 680s, both on E85. I think a lot of people must run way too rich on e85. They also worry too much about the injector duty cycle, which is far from accurate on the stock ECU-- I've heard of many people running IDC's showing 120-130% (everyones maximum seems to be different) with no issues, even on Evo8's & 9's. My friend's Laser shows 80-85% IDC and it's bone stock; my 1G Talon showed that it was about maxxing out the 680's that are now in my cousins 2g, and that car was stock except at 20psi on a 14B and E85.

I say If you can richen your tune, and the AFR's are still in line, then your injectors are nothing to worry about.
 
Not to purposely get off topic, but Eddie those EVO 10 wheels look great on your 1gB. Back on topic, What fuel setup do you have in the car JayRolla? In your profile you only have on Wally 255 listed, nothing about a FPR or filter upgrade...
 
Would you mind posting a shot of your maf settings? I tuned my 1250s and ended up at -55 global and 345 dead time. The trims were right in line. Nothing +or- %1. Thanks Eddie

Fuel trims are inline with no maf compensation.

jrohner said:
Yeah, I'm at 414 on 750's, and my cousin is at 321 on 680s, both on E85. I think a lot of people must run way too rich on e85. They also worry too much about the injector duty cycle, which is far from accurate on the stock ECU-- I've heard of many people running IDC's showing 120-130% (everyones maximum seems to be different) with no issues, even on Evo8's & 9's. My friend's Laser shows 80-85% IDC and it's bone stock; my 1G Talon showed that it was about maxxing out the 680's that are now in my cousins 2g, and that car was stock except at 20psi on a 14B and E85.

I say If you can richen your tune, and the AFR's are still in line, then your injectors are nothing to worry about.

You cant compare setups by HP numbers as they are not consistant. You cant say I made 400whp on 750's on e85 and use that to compare since all dynos read different numbers. You need to use airflow readings. Then if your maf is not perfectly calibrated than your airflow numbers may also be off. So the comparision everyone does with HP to injector size on e85 means absolutely nothing!!!!

e85_4g63 said:
Not to purposely get off topic, but Eddie those EVO 10 wheels look great on your 1gB. Back on topic, What fuel setup do you have in the car JayRolla? In your profile you only have on Wally 255 listed, nothing about a FPR or filter upgrade...

My profile is up to date. I have an unwired 255lph HP walbro and 1250cc injectors. That is it.
 
Car is running great though. I took the intake off to check the turbo and with over 1 year of turbo spikes at over 32psi the turbo has zero shaft play in and out or side to side. It kind of surprised me. I expected some shaft play for how old the turbo is.

With boost falling to about 24psi and 20* max timing dsmlink estimates 434hp and 404tq. Not bad even though it dont mean much. Max airflow is about 36lb/min but thats with an uncalibrated maf since I dont have my 3.5map hooked up.
 
Cant get car to stop showing PK. I have tried everything besides putting 3g lifters in which may be the issue.

I turned boost down too 10psi. Plugged a 2g timing map in and tuned on e85 at 10.5 afr. I still see knock above 5000rpms which is crazy. I should beable to see no knock on 85 octane fuel with that tune.

Im now thinking of just turning the knock sensor off and tuning without it. 25psi, 22* timing and 11.5 afr should be safe on e85 even without the sensor or not, I hope. LOL
 
Yeah, I hear ya. I haven't had a knock sensor to tune with for the last couple years.
 
And you are running that crazy compression. Well I wish you luck along with me. Because knock sensor is gettin shut off and tuning without it. Hope all is well.
 
Well the Fiance said it was ok to get the HX40 8/12 blade. Flows 60 lb/min and I have seen dynos showing faster spool than a gt3076r. Not bad for a turbo that flows so well. It will be a little before I can get the BEP housing but when I do I will start a new thread about my NEW HX40 SETUP!! Im real excited to get this turbo and see how it performs. Hopefully I dont kill my motor. New goal will be 500whp on a dyno jet.
 
Yea its going to be a bit on the parts. I want to run an external gate at the o2 housing so that makes a lot of parts. HX40, BEP housing, o2 housing, gaskets and lines. I would also have to recut my exhuast and reweld the flange since the evo o2 housing is at a different angle. So its going to be a bit. Im going to get the turbo and dream untill I have the parts to use it. LOL

On a side note I decided to turn the MBC all the way up as far as she would go. Before I just had it set to hit 30psi. Now it hits 30+psi in second and holds so much better. I actually saw it stay at 30psi and I was at 26psi around 5500-6000rpms. I need to log it and see exactly but the afr leaned from 11.5 to 11.9 the whole way through so I know some more air is moving. And the but dyno feels a lot better.
 
Nice^ any more updates with this car? Its been awhile...

I finally got to experience some ethanol, but I dont have it local to the pump, I have some connections but going to be getting 55 gal drums to store in the garage so I can keep the car on Ethanol, as well filled up some five 5 gal gas bins w/ the stuff. What we get isnt e85 though, we are loading up on pure E100 moonshine baby. My cars not a daily anymore, and Im only doing a 50-50 mix of e100 and 93oct, and I got it dialed in nicely so far, but fvck I see the fun you' midwest fvckers have been having all this time! This stuff is great!
 
Well from a wreck I had a long time ago a rear strut got blown out and I didnt know it. I went to rotate tires and one of the rears was so bad it looked like an icecream scoop was taken to the inside of the tire. Brakes went bad along with o2.

I got laid off along with my wife a week later so the HX40 plan was scrapped. I now have the car parked till I get some money (tax time) and hoping to get all the maintenance done.

Plans of now is a 75 shot of nitrous. I know its a little more dangerous but will be so much fun. After I kill this motor a 2.3 stroker will be inmind for an hx40 wetup.

As of now the tune is a little more aggressive.

32psi holding 26psi to 7k rpms. Timing never dips below 16* at boost and hits 22* at peak tq. 12.0:1 AFR all they way. Car loves it.
 
Sorry to hear about your situation man, though tough times await us all it appears.

Glad to hear your car is dialed in nice. You probably could use another deg of peak timing.
I still really wanted to hear how cams would do on your car, single biggest thing holding you back IMO besides the turbo.

Something Id like to add regarding the PK issues, on my new motor, since it was built a little looser with high HP in mind, it causes it to have bad PK issues also from 3-4 grand with any stab of the throttle.

Since you run dsmlink now, I wouldnt unplug the KS, but instead I was going to say you should just turn off the knock sensor below say 4500 rpm which is likely were all the PK will happen. Ethanol doesnt knock, and you shouldnt care about those lower rpms anyways. This is what I am going to do for mines at least...

I hope you know what your getting into regarding the 2.3 stroker and the nitrous thing. Your tranny is in for a world of trouble . LOL I had a thread over on dsmtalk in the manual transmission tech, " High Hp dsm tranny longevity" Check it out, it may be good information for you.

My current end goal w/ my car is near, I plan on setting the trans up w/ a tranny cooler, along w/ redline shockproof in trans, and going to limit power at 400 ft/lbs of torque to prevent breaking the transmission i.e. stripping gear teeth...
 
I had timing around 24* but I saw minimal gains on dsmlink so I pulled it back to keep things safer. No need to raise that much heat when I wasnt gaining any power.

My KS kicks in at 200rpms after full boost hits. This helps a lot but there are still situations where it can get PK. Since I dont want that to happen on the dyno I will set the KS to kick in at 10k rpms so it never does just to make sure it dont hurt my run.

As with the high HP I know what it can do. At my altitude uncorrected I will be lucky to ever see over 380whp with cams. I could get away with some nitrous bring the power level up over 450whp uncorrected and still be pretty safe in the drivetrain area.

It seems to be when 500whp/tq is broken then trannys become an issue. People here making over 600whp have to replace there synchros every year to keep the tranny smooth. Not to mention I have a buddy with a twin disc setup that tends to tear through synchros in any tranny no madder how its installed.

Now with the nitrous I wont always have it on tap like I do with a turbo. So I will be my normal safe 16g all the time untill I hit the strip. To me this is a lot more safe than having a huge turbo making power all the time.

But I could be wrong and it all blows up. Im not going to run more than a 75shot at first. If I go stroker I still wont go too much bigger than what I have now. I even thought of a hx35 now instead to be more safe.
 
I had timing around 24* but I saw minimal gains on dsmlink so I pulled it back to keep things safer. No need to raise that much heat when I wasnt gaining any power.

It actually cools things when igniting the a/f earlier. Technically, the heat dissipated is always the same. What you see released during blow down (exhaust valve opening) is much cooler when your timing is up, up , up. The reason: everything is all spent when the valve opens.

. . . Please go hx35. You need a compressor that likes higher boost considering your ambient conditions.
 
Not to thread-jack Jason, but Matt's threads almost have me convinced to switch to an HX35 if I stumble across some fundage (thanks ALOT Matt :p). With the e16g on my 2.3l, the 1st/2nd gear torque is down right brutal now. And I think I'm maxing my turbo up top due to the much better flowing stroker. Link is estimating 400hp and 328lbs torque, 43 lbs/min at 6600 rpms, 26psi falling to about 21 psi.

I may have more in it, but I'm a bit scared to up the boost and find out. I think I can definitely gain a bit with some more timing and a leaner AFR though.
 
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I had timing around 24* but I saw minimal gains on dsmlink so I pulled it back to keep things safer. No need to raise that much heat when I wasnt gaining any power.

My KS kicks in at 200rpms after full boost hits. This helps a lot but there are still situations where it can get PK. Since I dont want that to happen on the dyno I will set the KS to kick in at 10k rpms so it never does just to make sure it dont hurt my run.

As with the high HP I know what it can do. At my altitude uncorrected I will be lucky to ever see over 380whp with cams. I could get away with some nitrous bring the power level up over 450whp uncorrected and still be pretty safe in the drivetrain area.

It seems to be when 500whp/tq is broken then trannys become an issue. People here making over 600whp have to replace there synchros every year to keep the tranny smooth. Not to mention I have a buddy with a twin disc setup that tends to tear through synchros in any tranny no madder how its installed.

Now with the nitrous I wont always have it on tap like I do with a turbo. So I will be my normal safe 16g all the time untill I hit the strip. To me this is a lot more safe than having a huge turbo making power all the time.

But I could be wrong and it all blows up. Im not going to run more than a 75shot at first. If I go stroker I still wont go too much bigger than what I have now. I even thought of a hx35 now instead to be more safe.

From my research, and the people I have spoken with, generally people start having issues with the stock tranny after 400ft/lbs torque. Now this could also depend on how you drive it, how old the trans is, and the type of fluid being ran, but I dont have money to be going through transmissions every couple oil changes so thus I am trying to keep it safe. The torque is the issue , which nitrous and stroker give you.

Personally if it were me, Id go hx35 on your car, 30psi with cams and your ethanol and call it a day...
 
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