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air fuel gauge install [Merged 10-8] A/F AF ratio worthless blinky

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yea i know if wired up right, black w/ white stripe like the manual said, and when i say it doesnt work the lights that indicate that its rich lean or right dont work, and i know it was runnin rich bc it was spitting raw fuel out the exhaust!
 
The wire is white w/ a black stripe at the ECU.

You should take it back and get a wideband a/f gauge because that one will do NOTHING but blink from side to side. That is how the O2 sensor reads.

Maybe buy a different gauge such as volt, egt, ...
 
Or the zebra-colored wire with the tiger stripes.

This guy LOL.

I know that people are touching on it but I'll give you a serious answer. A A/f gauge in basic narrowband form which is what you see on ebay and everywhere for cheap is not a valid tuning tool or even accurate. The car needs to get heated up to even start reading anything with a narrowband. Otherwise it just stays stuck all the way rich. You need a Wideband o2 sensor which will tell you the exact a/d ratio.
 
Not to get off topic and it is a white w/ black stripe by the way as mentioned, butn if i were to get a wideband o2 sensor and hook it to my narrow band word it read or work any better
 
WTF That's like saying if I hook a gt35r to my t25 will it make any more power. You don't need the narrow band gauge once you get a wideband(assuming you get something with a gauge) It will totally take the place of that gauge and come with it's own oxygen sensor that you half to get hooked up into your exhaust not piggy back off the stock one threw a signal from the ecu like the one you have.
 
I know that a wideband gauge kit comes with a wide band o2 that has to be put in. I was just curious as to if i had just a wideband o2 sensor and hooked it to my narrowband if it would read differant since its a differant kind of sensor. This may be a dumb question but since both sensors technicly read differant i was not sure why it would or wouldnt work thats all
 
It's cool never a dumb question. I just wanted to make sure you knew a wideband has it's own sensor. Yes you can do this but its' a hack job and not worth it. MOst good kits come with gauges. I got my LC-16 kit from innovative for 299 shipped:thumb:
 
Its cool man, just figured id ask and see what i got in return. Im probablly goin to go with the AEM or the autometer. The autometer will match the rest of my gauges and if it or the aem are as good as the rest,that will be my choice of preferance
 
Its cool man, just figured id ask and see what i got in return. Im probablly goin to go with the AEM or the autometer. The autometer will match the rest of my gauges and if it or the aem are as good as the rest,that will be my choice of preferance

The only real reason to go innovative over AEM is if your gonna use MSnS and want to log your A/F to get a better tune.
 
Alright so we are working on a friends car, he picked it up for not much of anything, but someone had already worked on it and left alot of problems.


The car stutters alot revving above 3k rpms. There were 100 boost leaks but i took care of them. (ic piping leaks anyways).

The AFPR Gauge is not steady, should it be? He has the pump straight wired to turn on. And there is a gas smell inside the car, but no fuel is visible onto the ground or dripping from the tank. It fluctuates about +-3psi constantly, never steady.

We installed new wires/plugs/injectors (stock injectors stock MAF)

Ok here is where i get lost. It has an external wastegate, but still has the stock 16g wastegate arm on and has welded on a bolt to hold the arm shut with a nut. I think that the problem might be there. The nut that is holding the arm closed wasnt even the right thread pitch to the bolt that was welded to the wastegate arm. He must have been too lazy to take the turbo off and weld the stock flapper shut. Or am i wrong and the flap should stay open?

If thats an issue i can weld the flap shut or open, which ever is best (the wastegate is manifold mounted)
 
How much boost are you making?Are you seeing any boost above 3000rpm's?I think your flapper door could very well be the problem. Have it welded shut.Just curious, but what kind of fpr do you have?
 
yeah ill weld it shut tomorrow. but i just found out it has a 1g fuel pump inside it.

could that be part of the problem? Or is it ok to use a 1g fuel pump in these cars?

also the BOV is not recirculated, im going to recirculate it tomorrow and see if that helps
 
Ok i bought a air fuel ratio guage off a friend and he did have the instruction and im not sure what wires go to :talon:i would like somebody to help me tell me what wires to connect together and it is a face gauge so it has a red wire the power and the black the ground and there is a green wire and i would like for sombody to tell me where that green wires goes
 
You can get just as much information from it if you hook the sensor wire into the stereo output.

If you've not installed a wideband O2 sensor, don't bother with an AF gauge.
 
I hooked the gauge up to the white wire but it dosent move it stays on lean. the only thing that changed is that it stays on lean before i hooked it up it would stay on the rich. what could be the problem?
 
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