The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

free-revving

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EDM95

15+ Year Contributor
8,747
4
Mar 25, 2007
amarillo, Texas
Well here is what is happening, and maybe I can get some help I hope ..

When I first start up my car, if I go after any amount of time (usually 30 seconds to a minute), and try to go into drive, it will go in just fine and drive about 20-100 feet, but right when it's supossed to kick into second, it will either go into, and then start free-revving for about 10-20 seconds and then SLAM back into gear, or instead of going into second at all it will free rev. What could cause this? It's the weirdest thing!
Also I have a fluid leak by the trans and engine, I thought it was trans fluid but it looks like oil well it might be both of those.:confused:
 
You can have a lot of problems ...
If you say that it's comming from the tranny side then it could be an engine oil seal..
But sence you have problems shifting then most likely it's you're tranny or torque converter
Is there any way you can take pics from were the leak is comming from?
 
When is the last time you checked your trans. fluid? Too full or too low will cause this. And, if you have a leak, chances are its low.

I wouldn't drive the car until you fix the problems...
 
Why does the trans have a oil line going to it? I think as soon as i fix the hose and add fluid it might be all right. I have a few leaks that need to be fixed but i will see what happens after I fix them.
 
It has an oil line becuse it's an automatic..
The auto cars shift by oil pressure.
You might also want to change you're oil in the tranny it could help a lot with shifting.
 
Take the pan off, lowering one side more than the other to keep the mess to a minimum. The fluid will pour out.

Replace the filter that will be exposed, and remove any metal shaving that may have accumulated on the magnet in the pan.

Fix leak.

Replace pan, using a new gasket - don't over torque the pan bolts, they'll break.

Add ATF+4 fluid, start engine.

With foot on brake and hand-break engaged, run the selector up and down through each position, stopping for a few seconds at each position. Keep doing this while the engine warms up, then place in park, add fluid, and repeat this process until full.

edit: I am not sure, off the top of my head, if the A604 has a drain plug or not. Regardless, this is a pretty generic procedure.
 
^^^ is 100 percent correct. I think the line your talking about goes to your transmission fluid cooler. (I know the 4g auto cars have one, but im not sure about the nt) Make sure to use high pressure line if your replacing it. I would also do both pressure and return side at the same time.
 
420A A/T's are cooled through a loop in the radiator.

To "flush" the system, I usually remove the feed line to the radiator and direct it to bucket. With the car running, begin to fill the transmission with more fluid while the old stuff pours out. Eventually, you'll notice the old cloudy fluid stop pouring out as fresh, clear fluid replaces it. From there, turn off the car, reinstall the feed line, and check the A/T fluid level and top off as necessary. This whole process requires a box of ATF (~16 bottles).
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top