The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

cant get front suspension knuckles off

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Black99gst

15+ Year Contributor
123
1
Oct 15, 2007
lubbock, Texas
i have a tie rod removal kit, and ive tried and tried and cant seem to get the bastard to come off :cry:. i havent even gotten the steering tie rod off. heres some pictures. let me know how thoes of you who have done this, did it. thanks. :beatentodeath:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I usually use a heavy hammer and hit the spindle/knuckle. The jolt can free up the tappered end of the joint.
 
hit the knuckle? not the tie rod breaker?

edit: heres pictures of what all i got.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I don't like the pickle forks. I don't think they work that well and they usually tear the ball joint boot to hell. If you have a Harbor Freight near you try this, it works great. Most auto parts stores will have it to but you can get it much cheaper at HF.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

You will more than likely have to replace the ball joint boot. If you want to replace it with oem the p/n is MB808555.

If you are going to remove the hub/spindle then IMO it is easier to just leave both lower control arms attached at the ball joint end and unbolt them from the subframe. If you do this just place a jack under them so they don't suddenly fall and tweak the ball joints.

Good luck.
 
I use a device that has a fork and a jacking screw. I can tell you the amount of screw pressure it takes to lift the tie rod out is huge. Once it lets go everything goes flying.
Works great though. I've used it multiple times and it is shaped in a way not to damage the boot.
 
I also hit the knuckle right near the tie rod with a small sledge hammer. If necessary, put the nut back on the tie rod and screw it on so the end of the nut is flush with the end of the stud, then bang upwards on the nut/stud.
 
Yes, often with a steel/iron knuckle you can use a heavy (3lb/5lb) hammer and hit the side of the knuckle. That jarring will loosen the taper of the ball joint. On a 2g, it may be a good idea to use a jack and apply some upward pressure on the tie rod arm, so it wants to move up and once the knuckle is hit theres already pressure pushing upwards. I stay away from pickle forks as I usually need to reuse what I'm taking apart. The pickle fork usually destroy's the boot and can cause damage to the jall joint.
I always try to use a tie rod puller or pitman arm puller first.
 
i got it guys... yeah i went up to harbor freight to get one of the ones that kinda work like a c-clamp! all went well, and the car is back up and running! thanks! to everyone!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top