Motor Mount Wear?

[98GSXtreme07]

I guess really I should say transmission mount but maybe you guys can give me some help. I was under the car taking pictures of the charcoal canister helping out a member on here and noticed this huge gap in the lower transmission mount. I was wondering if the wear on it is normal, as well as the gap even though by the way it looks, it looks like its supposed to like that since the gap looks to have been made like that from the factory, and if I should be worried or not? I'am unsure of what normal wear and tear look like on motor/transmission mounts. Thank you for all help.


<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2439/1001305aj4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a>


<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6610/1001308az5.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a>

 

[DSMunknown]

Looks completely normal. Took mine out recently and replaced them with solids. I suggest you do the same.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/289588-solid-front-rear-aluminum-motor-mounts.html

 

[crimsondragon]

Wear is normal. Had that on the front motor mount when I took it out. Like Anthony said, either get Prothanes in them or get solid aluminum push-ins.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

The wear is normal but do you see where the rubber is starting to pull apart? That is making the mount sag. The center where the bolt goes through is supposed to be located in the center of metal housing. It will continue to sag until it rips all the way through. That is the point in which you HAVE to replace it. Just start thinking of an exit strategy now that way it's not a big surprise later when you need to replace it. BTW, the passenger's side and driver's side ones are the ones that normally wear out first. I would take those out and see how they look.

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Alrighty, appreciate all of the replies and will start looking into solid mounts.

Btw, I was right on calling it a trans mount right or do most people just call it the front motor mount? There's 3 trans mounts and 1 engine mount correct and the 1gs are opposite right, 3 motor and 1 trans mount?

 

[#1 laser]

i got the same prob wit motor mounts i used 3m window weld to fill the gaps in and it works great it dires to a urathane

 

[turbosax2]

Btw, I was right on calling it a trans mount right or do most people just call it the front motor mount? There's 3 trans mounts and 1 engine mount correct and the 1gs are opposite right, 3 motor and 1 trans mount?

Either one works - we all knew what you meant. If you want to get real technical, Mitsubishi calls it "Engine roll stop bracket - right".

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Ah, yea Mitsubishi and their technical terms. BOV = Bypass Air Valve. Thanks again guys for all your help.

 

[turbosax2]

Actually it's Air By-Pass Valve

 

[98GSXtreme07]

! Thank you for that correction.

 

[96mitsugsx]

Do the inserts or you can do it the RRE way. 3M windoweld is much cheaper.

 

[Jetrosr]

I used urethane caster wheels from an oil drain we were scrapping at our shop. Worked out they are almost perfect size, at least for the forward mount. Mine was destroyed. The hardest part was gutting the rubber from the bracket. Urethane/solid mounts take a little getting used to, by the way. Either that, or my engine idles really rough. Been in for about 2 weeks, no worries.

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Prothane mounts are about 13.99 for the front mount and 24.99 for the driver's side mount. I think they're worth the 40 bucks to me and probably a little less hassle for me than having to let urethane dry and put on and repeat.

Thanks again for all replies.

 

[r1991_4g63t]

i got the set of 4 prothanes for 75 bucks, DEFINITELY worth it.

 

[crimsondragon]

If you're like me who hates the idea of inserts just dangling off the mount, I actually filled the mount first with construction grade polyurethane. Tougher, harder, and more resistant to vibrations than window-weld. After adding in the inserts and letting it dry, I could definitely kill someone with it due to how solid it is.

 

[rich3389]

The energy suspension front and back inserts are like 20 bucks...

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If you're like me who hates the idea of inserts just dangling off the mount, I actually filled the mount first with construction grade polyurethane. Tougher, harder, and more resistant to vibrations than window-weld. After adding in the inserts and letting it dry, I could definitely kill someone with it due to how solid it is.

Took the words out of my mouth. The only thing I have to add to that is to do the poly filling in LAYERS. Do not just squeeze the shit out of the bottle and smoosh the insert in. The poly needs time to cure and if you have too much of it, the inside will never cure.

 

[98DropTop]

get Prothane Motormounts

 

[bmoha2]

I put in all four mounts from Prothane and was really surprised that the motor sits almost an inch higher in the engine bay! Torn worn mounts sag. Both my driver and passenger side mounts came out in two pieces. They were completely torn and were reduced to just one rubber ring fitting sloppily inside another rubber ring. I had run into a problem because of the excess amount of movement my engine was moving my throttle body came into contact with and crushed the face of my aeromotive afpr that I mounted on the firewall! The gauge was more than 3/4 of an inch away! Now the motor doesn't move at all. To put the driver's and passenger's side Prothane mounts in I drilled around the rubber mount with the mount in a vise with a 3/8ths inch bit and then connected the dots. I then took the blade out of a hacksaw and reinstalled with the blade inside of the aluminum mount. Carefully cut thru the inside steel ring and pulled it out with a large flat bladed screwdriver and voila! The motor mounts went in nice and easy. I did cut just the tip off the tranny side mount bolts to get the motor mount up and over them to get the mount out. I also found that on the driver's side mount it is easy to get the mount in, easy to get the front hole lined up but hard to get the back hole lined up. It's a blind hole into the wheel well. All I did was take the bolt out and thread it in from inside the wheel well to get it aligned on the backside and then it was able to slide in nice and smooth. It's a very worthwhile upgrade and I could kick myself for procrastinating at doing it for so long! I was actually starting to get some front wheel hop on harder launches (even though it's awd) because the mounts were so blown. I will stick with the Prothane motor mounts for right now but maybe later I'll upgrade to the solid aluminum motor mounts.