VETDRMS
15+ Year Contributor
- 340
- 21
- Jun 1, 2006
-
Vancouver,
Washington
I know this topic has been pretty thoroughly covered, but I just wanted to share my install of the MKIV Supra SMIC on a 2G Talon. The install took a couple nights as we had to wait until the next day to get parts needed along the way.
First off, I recommend removing the bumper for this install. It makes things a lot easier and you can work a bit more on proper fitment and actually using brackets to retain the SMIC, as opposed to zip ties, or whatever you might rely on.
Access is greatly improved with the bumper off. The stock SMIC is pretty pitiful in comparison.
First off, the goal was to mount the intercooler solid and relatively "hack-free." You might argue on how much that was accomplished, and go right ahead as feedback is welcome.
We wanted to mount the intercooler flush and perpendicular to the frame, while still retaining the side market and not creating a "power bulge" in the bumper. The goal was also to mount it so it did not hang below the bumper. Needless to say, it is a tight fit, and 2.5 of those goals were accomplished.
First off, once you get the intercooler about where you want to mount it, start cutting wildly and randomly.
The top hole was cut once for the inlet, but turned out to be a little off so yes, it was opened up a bit more, but not a whole lot, and I think it turned out pretty good. Tools recommended are a good die grinder and reciprocating saw (small air type works best).
As you can see this does move the outlet over significantly, some carressing of the MAF is required, and you may have noticed I have already relocated the fuse box for my ghetto upper intake pipe.
To keep the intercooler mounted at a right angle to the frame we notched the frame rail so the end tank sits inside, therefore the side of the tank sits flush with the frame rail.
Once you have it where you want it, I strongly recommend building some brackets to retain it. We used a few strips of aluminum, which ETS kindly provided, and bent, for free. You can see the three mounting points we used in the following photos.
Due to the orientation of the inlet when the SMIC is mounted flush to the frame, we had to use a 45 degree coupler. We retained the stock lower intercooler pipe coming off the J-pipe and with some work it worked well. I would recommend a hard pipe, which is probably what I'll end up doing in the near future. To connect the 2.5" pipe to the stock tube we used a 2" to 2.5" exhaust adapter. You can get the exhaust adapter at any auto parts store.
We originally were going to use an adapter for the upper pipe, but found a better solution by using a 45 degree coupler and taking the stock adapter ring from the T25 turbo and puting it over the 2.25" upper intercooler pipe. This was cleaner and allowed more room for the intake filter.
I should mention that to get the tank to mount flush with the frame rail you need to grind down the fin. Also, the fin had to be clearanced on the outside to clear the side marker mount.
Sadly, with the tank mounted so high, the end thank sits directly where the side marker is. The temporary solution was to "clearance" the side market, which means more or less cutting the back off and having the tank sit somewhat inside it. I will be ordering some smoked side markers to modify with LEDs to remedy this situation, as the profile can be very low. I will post that up when I get a chance to do it.
The intercooler does not hang down at all below the bumper, and I think all-in-all it turned out very clean.
So far I'm pretty impressed, I have not had a chance to do any tuning from the prior setup, but with this and the meth injection I think it should run pretty well. Its only flowing 32-34lbs/min at the moment but it feels much stronger on the top end, and the knock is completely gone. Thanks for looking.
First off, I recommend removing the bumper for this install. It makes things a lot easier and you can work a bit more on proper fitment and actually using brackets to retain the SMIC, as opposed to zip ties, or whatever you might rely on.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Access is greatly improved with the bumper off. The stock SMIC is pretty pitiful in comparison.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
First off, the goal was to mount the intercooler solid and relatively "hack-free." You might argue on how much that was accomplished, and go right ahead as feedback is welcome.
We wanted to mount the intercooler flush and perpendicular to the frame, while still retaining the side market and not creating a "power bulge" in the bumper. The goal was also to mount it so it did not hang below the bumper. Needless to say, it is a tight fit, and 2.5 of those goals were accomplished.
First off, once you get the intercooler about where you want to mount it, start cutting wildly and randomly.
The top hole was cut once for the inlet, but turned out to be a little off so yes, it was opened up a bit more, but not a whole lot, and I think it turned out pretty good. Tools recommended are a good die grinder and reciprocating saw (small air type works best).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
As you can see this does move the outlet over significantly, some carressing of the MAF is required, and you may have noticed I have already relocated the fuse box for my ghetto upper intake pipe.
To keep the intercooler mounted at a right angle to the frame we notched the frame rail so the end tank sits inside, therefore the side of the tank sits flush with the frame rail.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Once you have it where you want it, I strongly recommend building some brackets to retain it. We used a few strips of aluminum, which ETS kindly provided, and bent, for free. You can see the three mounting points we used in the following photos.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Due to the orientation of the inlet when the SMIC is mounted flush to the frame, we had to use a 45 degree coupler. We retained the stock lower intercooler pipe coming off the J-pipe and with some work it worked well. I would recommend a hard pipe, which is probably what I'll end up doing in the near future. To connect the 2.5" pipe to the stock tube we used a 2" to 2.5" exhaust adapter. You can get the exhaust adapter at any auto parts store.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
We originally were going to use an adapter for the upper pipe, but found a better solution by using a 45 degree coupler and taking the stock adapter ring from the T25 turbo and puting it over the 2.25" upper intercooler pipe. This was cleaner and allowed more room for the intake filter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I should mention that to get the tank to mount flush with the frame rail you need to grind down the fin. Also, the fin had to be clearanced on the outside to clear the side marker mount.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Sadly, with the tank mounted so high, the end thank sits directly where the side marker is. The temporary solution was to "clearance" the side market, which means more or less cutting the back off and having the tank sit somewhat inside it. I will be ordering some smoked side markers to modify with LEDs to remedy this situation, as the profile can be very low. I will post that up when I get a chance to do it.
The intercooler does not hang down at all below the bumper, and I think all-in-all it turned out very clean.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
So far I'm pretty impressed, I have not had a chance to do any tuning from the prior setup, but with this and the meth injection I think it should run pretty well. Its only flowing 32-34lbs/min at the moment but it feels much stronger on the top end, and the knock is completely gone. Thanks for looking.
, think after reading through it several times I would have noticed who posted the "long-version"], but Yes, right now it is just open-agreed. The bumper is pretty easy to pull, I haven't quite yet decided on how I want to build the cowl. I should have added a note to that affect, but thanks for pointing it out. I do not have the stock Supra cowl to modify.
