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DSM_PWR

DSM_PWR

15+ Year Contributor
2,457
19
Oct 12, 2007
Austin, Texas
As many of you may know, my car's been having stuttering problems that feel like a boost leak/fuel cut around 5k RPM. It's been that way for the past 3months now and I've just about checked as many things as I can to where I'm FINALLY tired and stumped! So I decided to take it to a shop and have them fix the problem.

I'm penciled in at ProTech here in Austin for the middle of August but id really prefer taking it anywhere else if someone can recommended me a good shop that will do the job right and in a timely manner.

Thanks
Richard
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DSM_PWR said:
As many of you may know, my car's been having stuttering problems that feel like a boost leak/fuel cut around 5k RPM. It's been that way for the past 3months now and I've just about checked as many things as I can to where I'm FINALLY tired and stumped! So I decided to take it to a shop and have them fix the problem.

I'm penciled in at ProTech here in Austin for the middle of August but id really prefer taking it anywhere else if someone can recommended me a good shop that will do the job right and in a timely manner.

Thanks
Richard
Click to expand...



Your car sucks....light it on fire...!!! :sneaky:

or ....TAKE IT TO MZM!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DSM_PWR said:
As many of you may know, my car's been having stuttering problems that feel like a boost leak/fuel cut around 5k RPM. It’s been that way for the past 3months now and I’ve just about checked as many things as I can to where I’m FINALLY tired and stumped! So I decided to take it to a shop and have them fix the problem.

I’m penciled in at ProTech here in Austin for the middle of August but id really prefer taking it anywhere else if someone can recommended me a good shop that will do the job right and in a timely manner.

Thanks
Richard
Click to expand...

DO NOT take your car to ProTech for that type of work. If you want, call Colvin Automotive and ask to talk to Daniel. He used to have a pretty quick 20g equipped 2g. I'm not sure of his duties there (if he is still there) but he should be able to help you if he is.
 
Whats it feel like when you get to 5k rpm at WOT? Is it like hitting a wall or just a significant decrease in power? Do you have anything other than SAFC/maf-t to control fuel? What happens to timing? You could be getting a lot of knock due to lots of negative correction on the afc. Got a log of what happens? Did this problem occur on the 16g you had before?
 
1stGenTSi said:
Whats it feel like when you get to 5k rpm at WOT? Is it like hitting a wall or just a significant decrease in power? Do you have anything other than SAFC/maf-t to control fuel? What happens to timing? You could be getting a lot of knock due to lots of negative correction on the afc. Got a log of what happens? Did this problem occur on the 16g you had before?
Click to expand...

Heres the thread where i expalin it all:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/298419-fuel-cut-i-have-no-idea-whats-wrong-help.html

But just in case...

I installed my 50trim and was running perfectly fine for about 2-3months. Tuned 11:1, w/ a little mix of e85 at 24psi with no knock/timing being pulled.

One day it just magically started happening..
Started stuttering so i lowered boost to 19psi, ran like that fine for a while then started to sputter as well, went down to 17psi, then 15psi and now
Around 4500RPM at 15psi, the car stutters/feels like i hit a brick wall. Then builds boost again and stutters again at 15psi.

The car is tuned 11:1-11:5 but still stutters at 4500RPM.
Timing takes a dip in the early RPMs which is normal and reaches around 9deg at 4000-4500rpm, seems to be climing at a decent rate
My Fuel trims are dead on, and cruise (mid) doesnt seem to have any kind of effect.

Heres a short list of what ive tried:
*Boost leak tests
*Swapped ECU
*Swapped Battery
*Swapped Coil packs
*New Spark Plugs (gapped .26)
*New Spark plug wires
*New PCV
*Removed Emissions with a EGR Block off plate
*New MBC (although i went from a cheap ebay to a homemade one that worked on a friends car)
*Lowered the boost to 17psi and tried it with 560cc injectors
*Tried 3 different Gm MAF
*Swapped the leaky Greddy Type S BOV for a Tial BOV

The funny thing is, when i reset the SAFC to start the tune over from scratch (started back at zero across the board) i did a pull and it held 15psi fine to redline, however, it was pretty lean since i did a pull with it zero'd out.
 
It looks like you figured out your problem in the other thread. You need dsm link or just go all out and get aem. :)
 
well i dont wanna say ive figured out the problem till its fixed because i must have thought i figured it out at least 15 times now... so untill i can redline 24psi again w/ no problem, then ill be happy ROFL
 
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