420A Turbo Oil feed location?

[Slippi84]

Where do you guys find is the best location to feed the turbo from? I could get one of those filter adapters they have on ebay that has the adapters built in but then I have to run a line to the complete other side of the block. On my 4g63 I ran it off the head with a filter/restrictor inline from SBR.

 

[chris712vt]

off the stock oil pressure sender on the back of the block. If you are under the car looking up... back side of the block, look around your axle and you should see two sensors coming out of the block - it's the one on your left. Hold on I'll post a picture I took of my oil fittings and a little diagram of the parts I used for it.

 

[chris712vt]

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Only difference between my diagram and my actual picture is I switched the oil pressure sender to the straight leg of the T and the turbo supply line to the side leg of the T so it would fit better in the space behind the block.

 

[Slippi84]

Sounds good. How long do I have to make sure my feed line is when I buy it then?

 

[throwedgsx]

You can feed the turbo off the oil filter housing. Which is the stock location.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Ummm...Stock location is off the head.

What kind of turbo are we talking about?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Slippi, I needed about 2ft to reach my 16G, I believe. I routed mine along the driver's side of the engine. You would obviously need more if you were to route it the other way.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

By the way, nice looking oil setup, Chris. I highly recommend using quality NPT/AN steel and/or aluminum fittings as you have done. For anyone looking into skimping on their oil systems, do not use Lowe's/Home Depot NPT/flare brass fittings. They leak, and weren't designed to be used in conjunction with AN lines.

My personal preference is using a 45* steel 3/8" NPT to 4-AN adapter at the back of the block. From there run a 6" - 12" length of SS line to your oil filter, restrictor, sending unit, etc.. Leaks in that location are a total pain in the ass, so you want to minimize as much plumbing complexity back there as possible.

 

[Slippi84]

That's it only 2ft hmm i figured it would need more like 3 atleast. The had complete listings on ebay that looks pretty descen here's the pic of the kit I was looking at.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I'm wary of some of those fittings. Just piece it together from Summit... the most expensive part is probably the oil drain, and that isn't more than $35 or so excluding any flanges.

 

[Slippi84]

That kit in the picture isn't knock off stuff it's just on ebay it cost like $95 shipped

 

[chris712vt]

Paul - Thanks, yeah I used all SS fittings. And in retrospect, as you said, I wish I had just run a stainless line off the block to a more accessible location, then T-ed off to the pressure sender and the turbo feed. It would be much easier to check for leaks and/or work on.

Slippi - in addition to what Paul said, I would recommend using liquid Teflon sealant on all connections, I hear it seals better than the tape. And I believe I had about 3' of stainless line for my turbo feed, and it was plenty. I ran it from the back of the block up under the IM, around the driver's side of the motor and right to the turbo.

 

[Slippi84]

Yeah that would work I think that paul went right next to where the egr is and that would explain the very short amount needed. I would never use teflon tape on something like this def go with like a permatex sealant of some kind to prevent leakage. Are you guys running inline filters?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

That kit in the picture isn't knock off stuff it's just on ebay it cost like $95 shipped

The aluminum fittings aren't what concerns me, it's the brass ones: I wouldn't touch them.

As for sealing the threads... one should never use Teflon tape because of its tendency to slightly degrade and clog lines, filters, etc.. Teflon paste (i.e. Teflon joint compound) works well. For the NPT fittings, use a little Teflon paste at the end of the threads, and a little anaerobic sealant further up.

-AN fittings are specifically made to seal without any sort of sealing compound. Using Teflon paste or other sealants can actually impede their ability to seat and make a tight seal. Simply tighten them finger tight, then finish by turning a 1/4 turn with a wrench.

Slippi, you're right, I've routed mine right where the EGR tube was. I don't use a filter on the 16G, but I do have one for the 35R. I wouldn't run a ball bearing turbo without both a filter and a restrictor. My oil setup begins with the 45* steel fitting in the back of the block, which then goes through a 12" line to a 4-AN|1/8"-NPT|4-AN tee for the oil pressure gauge to the inline filter.

I like how the lines are routed this way because I can secure the oil filter to the valve cover using one of those hose/wire tie-down clamps so nothing dangles.

From there another section of 4-AN line goes to the restrictor which is threaded in the turbo CHRA.