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Winter 07/08 Projects and Plans?

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I will have an install writeup with pictures. Wont be able to install these til next week. I am waiting for the mounting brackets for the calipers yet from TCE and I'll be out of the state til about tuesday.

How wide are those rotors? From the photos, they look like one inch to me. If so, you haven't been paying attention to the advice about rotors: for an AWD car, you need 1.5-inch wide rotors, or they will crack.

If they are 1.5 inch, then that is an awesome setup.
 
How wide are those rotors? From the photos, they look like one inch to me. If so, you haven't been paying attention to the advice about rotors: for an AWD car, you need 1.5-inch wide rotors, or they will crack.

If they are 1.5 inch, then that is an awesome setup.

Rich,
How many sessions would you get out of a set of 1 inch thick rotors before they cracked? Also, what is/was the weight of your car? The reason I ask is that I have the same Stoptech kit that you had prior to modifying it and I haven't had ANY signs of cracking. What pads were you using?...and where did you see the first signs of these cracks?
 
Rich,
How many sessions would you get out of a set of 1 inch thick rotors before they cracked? Also, what is/was the weight of your car? The reason I ask is that I have the same Stoptech kit that you had prior to modifying it and I haven't had ANY signs of cracking. What pads were you using?...and where did you see the first signs of these cracks?

Answers:

1. Once it took only one weekend. Grrr... Typically, 2-3 events
2. 3,000 lb
3. Carbotech Panther Plus
4. At the hub twice, once at the edges.

In all, I cracked three StopTech 1-in. rotors (at $220 apiece) in one season before getting the calipers widened and going to 1.5 inch rotors.
Since then, I haven't cracked any. In fact, the first set of 1.5 in rotors are still on the car after a full season, and they show no signs of wear. I'm sure they wore down some, but the slots are still deep.

I sold my car to the previous owner (the guy who built it initially) and found out that he had had a similar problem. Others on the forum have reported the same problem.

Don't forget, though, that I USE my brakes. I SLAM them on to within one microsmidge of lockup (that took some practice and a few flat-spotted tires to learn). Maybe they will last longer if you don't stand the car on its nose under braking like I did.
 
Rich, I seem to recall Andy posting that he ordered the 1.25" thick rotors. I tried to find the post but got distracted.
 
I run the 13x1.1, definitely not enough. I am amazed at the people that can run 12x.8 or whatever it is...geeze. I have cracked the 1.1 rotors. I may eventually step up to the 1.25, but im gonna try ducting and weight reduction before swapping to heavier rotors.
 
Here's a link that shows some pictures of a TCE kit installed with safety wired bolts.
Far North Racing - Brakes

Eric helped me find this link. :thumb:

thanks for the link. i have far north racing's website in my favorites. I will have to drill some holes on those bolts and wire them up.


Edit: Brian, you got me reading his race diary again. Where is Dennis Grant these days???
 
If I can't make the Porsche 996 calipers work well, I'll be switching to Todds setup front and rear.


I hope you can make them work. Of all the brake systems available, Porsche Big Reds are the awesomest. Big pistons, lots of pad area, and super-easy to change at the track, because they were designed for endurance racing. I had a set on my 3000GT. If they can stop a 4000 lb 3000GT, they oughta work fantastically well on a DSM.

If you know somebody who has a "Porsche connection" to get their special racer discount, you can buy the calipers for about $400 each.

As I recall, the Big Reds work with stock 3000GT rotors, which are about $100 each from the dealer (Rotors that fit a 3000GT also fit DSMs).
Porterfield Rotors are available at about $120 each. I ran a set of Coleman two-piece rotors, which allows you to just change the outer ring for about $100. You can buy the Colemans through SuperCar Engineering.
 
He Re-enlisted with the army.

Out of topic, but thought Id say thanks to him. Our numbers are not looking good and we need all the guys we can get. Of course my reenlistment is $15k but thats another topic ;)

And I drool over the Far North Racing website just to add. Been reading that for a very long time.
 
hey this is the guy who bought rich's (slowoldpoop) eclipse back from him. i really haven't touched the car since i picked it up, im just gathering parts for the new turbo.
i did manage to swap the seats, put a new 3inch stainless exhaust, and perwire the nitrous kit. im currently waiting on the 35rhta to get here from fp and a new/used engine harness that this car really needs badly, also looking for another way to do the battery cables under the hood, anyone have any suggestions? we have a NASA event here at mid ohio in a few weeks, im hopeing to get the car ready and that theres slots open for me to enter in about a week after im certain the car is ready to go.
all in all im pleased with the car,had a few issues at first where it wouldnt boost past 10 pounds without a major backfire, i got to finally test drive it the other day and all i can say is wow!
here a couple pics of the car that i have taken....

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and the new shearer fab header and tial 44mm wategate :sneaky:

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Nitrous? I was pretty sure that was illegal in NASA.
yes, but not in the one lap, or at the drag strip. unlike what rich had planned, this car will be right at home on the dragstrip as it is on the road course. im more into a car that can do everything. hell this car will see more street miles this summer then it has since i sold it in 04
 
all in all im pleased with the car,had a few issues at first where it wouldnt boost past 10 pounds without a major backfire, i got to finally test drive it the other day and all i can say is wow! [/IMG]

I bet all you had to do was reload the AMS tune into DSMLink, right? That's what we did when the same problem occurred. After several weeks of sitting around with no battery power on the ECU, it will lose its mind and has to be reloaded.

Glad you like it. I bought a 318/M3 conversion, and it doesn't have anywhere near the power. Just wait'll you see how it pulls up at the Big End. The only thing keeping it from running 150+mph is aerodynamics--wing and a splitter, maybe.
 
Oh god, not the lame-o garden bumper trick.

Build the car a real splitter and gain some downforce.
 
Oh god, not the lame-o garden bumper trick.

Build the car a real splitter and gain some downforce.

haha yea i know, but it's the best option for me right now with as much as im going to street drive it, rubber garden carp is easier/cheaper to replace then hand bent aluminium. the cheap rubber splitter that was on the car when rich got it lasted 3 plus years and didn't look too bad, and was better then nothing.
 
There are no center caps in those pictures. They look like old SSR GT1's.
 
Busa jockey, what wheels are those? I like the look and they appear to have a pony on the center cap which means they maybe easy and inexpensive to find.
Thanks,
Chris

there SSR GT1 wheels, SSR just stopped making that style, the GT3 are almost the same but have riviots around the wheel. thats not a center cap, its part of the cotter pin that i guss kinda looks like a pony.....
 
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