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Crank Scraper crankshaft scraper [Merged 12-6]

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Sinner

20+ Year Contributor
504
1
Oct 29, 2002
Syracuse, New York
I was wodering if anyone has used one on the 420A. I found one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2412290757&category=6770. From my past expirence with V8's I know they are a good thing to used and gain some people 10-15 horse on a V8, but I have yet to hear anything about them for a four cylinder motor. I plan on replacing my rod bearing cause they went bad and I was wodering if this might be worth my money to put in while I'm there.
 
I ordered it thru SBR so wasn't aware I was gonna have that problem ahead of time. If nothing else, people will know about it now though before they order :D
 
bjones18 said:
I guess this is an alternate method to knife edging the crank. Which is performed on the trailing edge of the crank. More aerodyanmic, less oil-cloud.

Knife edging a crank is doen to the leading edge. FFWD is the only place i know of the does the trailing edge on their butcher cranks.

Here check it out.

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/butchercrank.shtml
 
v8s_are_slow said:
I ordered it thru SBR so wasn't aware I was gonna have that problem ahead of time. If nothing else, people will know about it now though before they order :D


I think we will just make them like that stock now. Also, for the 6 and 7 bolt engines we have dual scraper setups now.

I will look into making a windage tray for the engines -- I just finished a design for the Nissan KA24DE with the full girdle -- design elements might swap over directly to the full girdle on the 7 bolt.

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Kevin if you do make one be sure to desighn it for ARP main studs since I think most of your 4g63 customers will have them. Keep us informed.
 
TSIfreek said:
Kevin if you do make one be sure to desighn it for ARP main studs since I think most of your 4g63 customers will have them. Keep us informed.

I cannot believe how quickly time has gone by. It is still on the long to-do list but I have to fit this design work in between making the products.

There is a good article by David Vizard in the August, 2006 Circle Track discussing gains by using reprofiled crank counterweights and coatings.
 
I am planning to run a scraper, custom windage tray and panavac system on my street car to try to measure results from that with a wet sump system to th eOEM style wet system and OEM tray. I am guessing on a 2.4 hybrid it might have better results than a 2.0. Be nice to see...:thumb:
 
Now I am curious if anyone has used these, and how close does the crank come to the scraper? Are they safe?



Now what I mean by "are they safe" I mean can I trust something that someone I dont know made?


Now I know the old Pontiac Big bore V8's used to come with them but then they stopped. Cruious as to why?


Basicly im wondering is it possible for one to get wrapped up in the crank shaft?
 

Also worth mentioning is that, a system of baffles in the oil pan serves more to preven oil starvation than a scraper. For the most recent poster who posed the "scraping" question, yes, they do make versions with a teflon edge that will actually self-clearance against the crankshaft to provide the best results.

Visit crank-scraper.com for more information and pictures.
 
Also worth mentioning is that, a system of baffles in the oil pan serves more to preven oil starvation than a scraper. For the most recent poster who posed the "scraping" question, yes, they do make versions with a teflon edge that will actually self-clearance against the crankshaft to provide the best results.

Visit crank-scraper.com for more information and pictures.

Baffles are good which is why we include them in our full setups. However, you need to remember the high rate at which an oil pump draws from the sump. In short transients the trapped oil from baffles will suffice. For extended high g sweepers the supply can be exhausted and returning oil can be at the opposite end of the sump. This is where a scraper really helps too.

A windage cloud attempts to distribute itself along the length of the crank. The forces promoting this are orders higher than the g forces generated by turns. By having a full length scraper the area above or forward to the pickup is constantly having stripped oil fed to it, helping to keep the pickup head submerged.
 
The "crank scraper" as you called it is NOT made to scrape oil off the crank. It's job is to keep the oil around the crank away from it when it's rotating to reduce drag. It should never come into contact with the crankshaft itself. Hope this helps with your question.
 
It also prevents a cloud of oil vapour from forming beneath the crankshaft, allowing it to setting into the pan.
 
Wanted to know if any of you road racers ran crankscrapers to help keep the oil from frothing and the added benefit of improving horsepower by the "flinging" of the oil. I do not know much about them that is why I am asking. I am considering getting one for my 2g 7-bolt when I pull off the oil pan to do the gasket. Opinions?
 
hi im from the uk and i was also looking at this ive been told its not a bad item it keeps weight down to the center and then keeps it from moving all round it! ive also been told to get apr rod bolts at the same time as its the best option aparently? hopw this is ok was on the phone for an hour getting this info!
 
Crank scrapers are worthless. If your crank is dipping into the oil far enough to make the oil "frothy" or is dipping into the oil at all then you have more problems that it can fix.
 
How does the oil in the pan behave when you're cranking out 1+ Gs in the corners? Does it pool to one side, possibly allowing the crank to come in contact with the oil? Just thinking out loud.

Exactly... plus, oil doesn't only come from below. Oil from the crank journals and squirters adds to the rotating mass which can be reduced with a crankscraper.
 
I've read about these and spoken to a bunch of folks regarding their benefits. I have one on order through Crankscrapers and believe that in a roadrace situation they will be beneficial. That being said I have no evidence or proof and do not plan on re-dynoing my car after it's install. The nice thing about the Ishihara scrapers is the Teflon option which I opted for. It's basically a zero clearance scraper...you can't get much better than that.
 
I've read about these and spoken to a bunch of folks regarding their benefits. I have one on order through Crankscrapers and believe that in a roadrace situation they will be beneficial. That being said I have no evidence or proof and do not plan on re-dynoing my car after it's install. The nice thing about the Ishihara scrapers is the Teflon option which I opted for. It's basically a zero clearance scraper...you can't get much better than that.

Why is the teflon better than a regular?
 
* Our new Teflon® scrapers (patent pending) can safely contact rotating engine components. The closer you can run a scraper the more efficient it becomes. Typical safe clearances for standard scrapers run from .035" through .060" -- some more daring builders run them as close as .010" Teflon® scrapers can run in actual contact with the part, .000" clearance, but in reality the rotating assembly will bed or seat in the soft Teflon® and develop a running clearance of perhaps .001 to .005".

What is a crank scraper
 
Just saw that, how would you "break nin" this teflon, just rotate the crank with the oil pan off so you can catch the teflon shavings? I would want to try running it when its gonna take some teflon off...
 
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