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SYNAPSE Blow Off Valve

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MOTRAIN

Probationary Member
21
0
Jan 6, 2007
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
1. Anyone have any comments or reviews of this bov after the recent group buy?


2. Does Anyone have any pics of this bov installed on a 2G?


Thanks :thumb:,
Brian
 
I haven't installed mine yet as I still need to weld up a custom 1G flange adapter. Hopefully I will find time to weld it by this weekend but my school schedule is crazy. I will post pics in here as soon as it is in if no one else has done it yet.
 
ok cool thanks... is anyone putting this on Greddy piping?

Thank you to everyone that picked up one of our BOV's from JNZ's group buy. The main point I want to make sure that everyone here is aware of is an update to our tuning manual from the one that came with your unit in the box. Please make sure to use Port C with a boost-only source. http://www.synapseengineering.com/pdf/bov-manual.pdf

Motrain, our dyno mule is actually a built 2G Eclipse 4G63 with Greddy piping and IC, so I'll post pics of the install here soon.

If you did pick up one of the BOVs, it would be very helpful if you can reply back with the following so that we can give you some tuning and setup tips and be better able to support you:

Car
Are you replacing an existing BOV and which one?
What is your piping flanged for?
Are you still running the MAF, or have you switched to MAP?
 
I did purchase one and am getting ready to install...

1999 Eclipse
1G BOV
Stock on currently but am switching to Greddy Upper and Lower piping soon
Running stock MAF setup
 
Thanks for the heads up on port C. I was wondering why nothing was said about that in the tuning manual that came with my BOV.

I purchased one and should have my flange welded and ready to install this week.

1999 Eclipse
Replacing a 1G BOV
1G flange on my piping.
Stock MAF setup.
 
Sorry it took me so long to get the pics on here.
The BOV is mounted on the stainless steel mounting flange it came with welded to a mild steel 1G flange from RRE.
The piping in my car is the short route piping that comes with the SSAC FMIC. And I am using the stock recirculation tube that I had to cut off a little from each end.
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Here is a video of it on my car. You can't here it very well since I'm not building boost just revving in neutral.
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It is replacing a 1G BOV and I am running just over 20 psi. I still have some bugs to sort out with the valve. Rough first impressions are that it is holding boost much better than the 1G as should be expected. My boost gauge just shows a steady 20.2 all the way to red-line (Big 16G by the way).

It does not flutter at all when I shift. I am having some issues when I lift very slightly under load (driving up a long hill on the freeway and lifting for traffic for instance) and it seems to open all the way and I instantly go form 15 psi to -2 in/Hg when in the past my boost would just drop slightely. The guys from Synapse are working with me on it and I haven't had a chance to play around with running a vacuum line just to B or just to A. I'm going to do that after school tonight.

I'll get back to you guys once I have the time to make everything run amazing. I am really happy with it so far.
 
Good to hear your not seeing any flutter so far, thats one thing I don't like about the SSQV when recirculated, it almost always flutters. Was also wondering how loud it is when recirculated, it seems to be descently loud when recirculated in the videos that they post.
 
It is louder than the 1G. It is hard to quantify how much without a decibel meeter but I would guess that it is about 30%louder than my 1G was.
 
I have really been looking at one of these for a while, and I am about to buy it. I will have to run a new vacuum line, though, since i am currently NOT recirculating (I know, I know, but in my defense I have not done a whole lot to this car yet.). Did the manufacturer happen to say how well it will do without recirculating until I can get it set up?
 
I have really been looking at one of these for a while, and I am about to buy it. I will have to run a new vacuum line, though, since i am currently NOT recirculating (I know, I know, but in my defense I have not done a whole lot to this car yet.). Did the manufacturer happen to say how well it will do without recirculating until I can get it set up?

This can't be done unless you by their "venting kit", as far as I know since this BOV doesn't stay shut under vacuum conditions. Therefore you would be sucking in unmetered air under these conditions. The 1g valve seems to leak abit under vacuum as well & I know from personal experience when my recirculation tube came lose the car barely ran/stalled when hitting vacuum from boost in this condition. If you want to run it not recirculated you need to also purchase their venting kit (think they call it an anti stall kit or something).
 
Well, I found some time in my schedule to play with my car. All I had to do was put off writing four lab reports until 10:30 at night when I have to be up at 6 for class.

So in my initial setup I had both ports A and B (the ones on the back of the BOV) connected to my intake manifold. Port C (the one on the side of the valve) I had teed off of the line from my J-pipe to my MBC.

Today I drilled and tapped my upper intercooler pipe about 6 inches from the BOV flange to give port C a clean boost only source that would match what the other side of the valve sees. I also experimented with running only port B connected to my intake manifold and A open to the atmosphere.

I am now very happy with the valves performance. The stumble when lifting slightly under load is gone and it still holds 20 psi solid and steady.

And I have to give a huge thumbs up to Synapse Engineering for amazing customer support in helping me to get the valve working right.
 
To everyone that picked up a Synapse BOV in the recent GB. Your setup may be a little different from what you read in the tuning manual. After extensive testing, we are finding that the DSMs (EVOs included) perform better by having only Port B on the BOV connected to Boost/Vacuum. You still need to run Port C to boost-only.

Why does this make a difference? The geometry in the BOV generates 4 unequal surface areas. The ratios of those surface areas to one another, and which one gets boost/vacuum, changes the response curve of the BOV. If this is going over your head, just play around with running both ports on the back vs only 1 port on the back to boost/vacuum. So long as you are not getting compressor surge. Each application will vary depending on your mods such as cams, etc. If you are running a lower idle vacuum due to cams, you will probably need to run both ports on the back of the BOV.
 
Who was it that made a "non conventional" wastegate? I thought it was synapse. It wasnt shaped like a regular "valve" but it articulated and allowed wastegate gas to flow like 40% more from a smaller opening.
Anyone know what I'm talking about? I HAVE searched for this over the past two months or so, I keep forgetting about it, because its hard to find without knowing what its called =)
 
Synapse uses standard poppet valves for flow control. What is unconventional, is the actuator geometry (same as what is in the BOV). There are quite a few experimental units out there.
 
Man, I'm glad I found this thread. I also got my synchronic bov during the group buy, however I currently have it installed with ports A&B connected to a vacuum source and port C open to the atmosphere.

I am running 8 psi, and what I've been noticing is that under light throttle or partial boost it opens and releases all excess pressure the instant I lift on the throttle, as it should. However under full boost it makes a quick surge-like flutter then blows off a split second later when I lift the throttle or shift gears.

I hope that this surging is corrected when I go home today and run a boost-only line to port C. It makes sense now after seeing the updated install guide that perhaps whenever I build up 7/8 psi the valve isn't responding the way it should, thus causing the quick surge before it blows off.

Also, one other thing. I would assume that regardless of whether you run the vacuum line directly from the intake manifold, or through a vacuum distributor box, or via multiple "T"s, the BOV will see the same vacuum pressure and respond the same. Is that correct? I currently run my boost gauge, bov, fpr, and brake booster from a vacuum box and just wanted to make sure that my 'quick surge' problem isn't being caused by a lack of vacuum pressure.




Update from the new install guide about port C for anyone who hasn't read it:

"Connecting Port C to a Boost Only Source must be
performed on any system running more than 7 psi of boost
pressure. This allows the Synchronic BOV to have the same
opening force no matter how much boost you run."
 
I'm still going crazy trying to find an aluminum flange from someone who doesn't want insane shipping prices. Everyone that does have it, has the flange for $23 and shipping for $19. What a joke.
 
I got my Synchronic. Really looks nice compared to my 1G bov. I'm going to try and hook it up port b and c with a to atmosphere like stated above.
 
Installed mine today. Amazing piece of engineering. Quick response. Sounds identical to a 1g BOV, but about 20% louder. (Recirculated) This company is producing great products. I hope they keep it up!
 
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