I need major help...will be able to pay.

[deadlyforce]

Okay, my vehicle is DOA. I love her to death, but I got a bad break. I want to mod, but I need to do a lot of maintenance first. My fiance is getting me a loan from her uncle of between $7,000.00 to $10,000.00 to fix her up (the car, not the girl). The thing is that I have essentially no capability of performing the repairs myself (tools, location, know-how) and a lot of the problems I don't even know how to properly diagnose. I know I need new suspension, but not what parts exactly. I know my exhaust needs a major overhaul, but again, not sure exactly what. Timing belt (60k mile maintenance altogether) hasn't been performed in well, about 90k miles. There are a lot of things I need to repair (upgrade in the process), but I don't know where to begin. I am finally going to have the funds for the parts I need, but I am not sure of what parts I do need. If anybody, at all, is willing to help me, even just with the diagnosis of certain problems and naming parts (there sure are a lot of parts to a suspension, I don't know which ones to replace) it would be greatly appreciated. there is a speed shop literally right around the corner from me (1320 Motoring), but they pretty much laughed at doing repair work (Haha, you can't afford mods? Screw you), upgrades only. I will definitely have funds leftover from purchasing materials, so I am seeking to hire somebody to help (and teach em in the process) me install my new parts once I receive them, and tell me what I need to get.
I live in Hagerstown, so if interested in helping me, please post here, e-mail me at [email protected], or PM me on here. I am available most morning until 11:00 a.m., and anytime on weekends if anybody wants to come look at the Eclipse.
Thank you once again for reading all of that, and for the generosity and willingness to help I have experienced here. I never stop learning...

 

[ZiggysDSM]

shoot me a pm of everything you want to do and your mod list and i will get back to you

 

[Black 95 TSI]

Does the car even run? What type of problems are you having with the car. I am down for helping with anything Let me know bro

 

[deadlyforce]

The car does run, the engine itself seems very solid actually. But my suspension is shot, it grinds and moans and squeaks so horribly, that my car pool buddy couldn't take it after one day. I recently discovered that the rear bushings had been replaced with hose in the past. It's just so damn loud inside the car, and the hole in the exhaust isn't helping much either. I am going to coat the wheel wells, but the interior has so many rattles itself I'm not sure what good that would do. My brakes are pretty bad as well, as well as my transmission doesn't seem very stable. I need new rims as a two by four on the highway bent two of mine. I know I need an upgraded BOV and air filter system. Everything on the car is bone stock, aside from the aforementioned cat-back exhaust with the hole. The windshield is cracked, but I'll probably have SafeLite repair that. I believe my motor mounts are bad as well, as the steering wheel itself shakes constantly. Basically, I need just about everything fixed/replaced. One thing I have learned from being here, is that there's no better time to upgrade than when something breaks.

 

[miteclipse99gsx]

The car does run, the engine itself seems very solid actually. But my suspension is shot, it grinds and moans and squeaks so horribly, that my car pool buddy couldn't take it after one day. I recently discovered that the rear bushings had been replaced with hose in the past. It's just so damn loud inside the car, and the hole in the exhaust isn't helping much either. I am going to coat the wheel wells, but the interior has so many rattles itself I'm not sure what good that would do. My brakes are pretty bad as well, as well as my transmission doesn't seem very stable. I need new rims as a two by four on the highway bent two of mine. I know I need an upgraded BOV and air filter system. Everything on the car is bone stock, aside from the aforementioned cat-back exhaust with the hole. The windshield is cracked, but I'll probably have SafeLite repair that. I believe my motor mounts are bad as well, as the steering wheel itself shakes constantly. Basically, I need just about everything fixed/replaced. One thing I have learned from being here, is that there's no better time to upgrade than when something breaks.

sorry bro but here is reality.

sh*ts a turd. sell it and buy a new one for 7-10k your better off trust me

 

[erald01]

I don't mean to bring you down or anything but just like miteclipse99gsx mentioned it is not worth it. the shell alone seems to be needing a major overhauling. For $7000-10000, you can get a modified one and have money left over. Sell it for a couple of grand and buy one thats already taken care off.

 

[Big28 2gFWD]

Nobody wants to have thier dreams shot down by a bunch of guys telling them to give up on thier current project. Ok considering I'm in FL and you are in the Mid Atlantic, the best I can offer is over the net. $7-10 is a pretty big budget. Lets start with the suspension. Bring it to a legitimate repair shop and let them dignose your problem. Any decent tech should be able to diagnose the location after a test drive, and find the exact problem after visual inspection. If any bushings are shot, let them repair them. Having the convience of a press and air guns make that job well worth the money spent on labor as opposed to attempting it yourself in the driveway without proper tools and know-how. Aside from paying someone else to do your bushings, having a timing belt done at a shop is also not a bad idea for you. It's not that hard, but is somewhat involved, try and seek out a local dsmer if you can, having someone who's been down that road before makes things a whole lot easier. If not be prepared so spend plenty ($400??) to have this done at a shop. Aside from those two things here's my advice..drop a hundred on a decent tool set (ther's always some sort of 200 piece mechanics set on sale somewhere) and buy a Chilton's or Haynes manual, and live on this website. Anything you will possibly come across has been dealt with already by one of our members, responses come quick, and there's alot of knowledge to be learned. Even if every single piece of your suspension had to be replaced (trailing arms, control arms, hubs, etc..) most of them come off with only a few bolts and some elbow grease. carpartsmit.com is a great site for oem replacement pieces. There's six million different shock/spring set ups. I run a set of tein superstreet coilovers, and absolutely love them. There's lots of cheaper alternatives tho..KYB's and a set of Eibach's have been proven a million times over. Lastly, there's a great chance that your motor mounts are probably bad as well, look into Prothane for replacement inserts.

Onto brakes. Hawk HPS is by far the best all around pad I have ever run. They aren't too expensive (hunt around, you can do all four corners for about $120). Buy a set of oem spec replacement rotors, or a set of slotted if you like. Lets face the facts, if your car is barely handling and stopping as is, just bringing things back to oem spec should make a world of difference. Sure you could do a gsx dual piston caliper upgrade, some stainless lines, aggressive pads, and expensive rotors. But way back in the day before i did any of these, my car stopped just fine with everyday use and some "spirited" driving here and there with just some powerslot rotors and a set of ebc green stuff pads.

Onto 60,000 mile maint.
1. Change oil and filter: I use Mobil1 synthetic
2. Check and fill all fluids to proper level: self explanitory
3. Check all drive belts: If you end up having a shop replace your timing belt, have all the other belts changes as well.
4. Check emissions filters: do a search on EGR delete, and follow the instructions if you are in an area with smog testing.
5. Inspect exhaust components: We already know you have a leak, buy a new cat-back or have your hole welded shut by a muffler shop, or anyone you know who can weld.
6. Replace spark plugs: NGK BPR7ES, you should probably do wires as well
7. Drain and replace engine coolant: Theres a drain plug on your radiator, pop it and refill
8. Chack and possibly replace battery: Optima is well worth the money

There's more to the 60,000 mile, but that should be what you need to get you headed in the right direction. I'd also recommend replacing your fuel filter at this time. One all of these are done you should have a relatively solid platform to begin modding with. You mentioned transmission problems, please elaborate. Your total thusfar should be under $1800 (depending on suspension set up and shop labor). There's planty of routes to go for power, all to be discussed later. You need to take care of the required first, and set a realistic HP goal for yourself. If your car is on it's last legs, aim for 300whp, you'll have money leftover, and room to upgrade later. There's plenty of us on here to help you reach your power goals, no matter what they are...good luck!

 

[miteclipse99gsx]

Nobody wants to have thier dreams shot down by a bunch of guys telling them to give up on thier current project. Ok considering I'm in FL and you are in the Mid Atlantic, the best I can offer is over the net. $7-10 is a pretty big budget. Lets start with the suspension. Bring it to a legitimate repair shop and let them dignose your problem. Any decent tech should be able to diagnose the location after a test drive, and find the exact problem after visual inspection. If any bushings are shot, let them repair them. Having the convience of a press and air guns make that job well worth the money spent on labor as opposed to attempting it yourself in the driveway without proper tools and know-how. Aside from paying someone else to do your bushings, having a timing belt done at a shop is also not a bad idea for you. It's not that hard, but is somewhat involved, try and seek out a local dsmer if you can, having someone who's been down that road before makes things a whole lot easier. If not be prepared so spend plenty ($400??) to have this done at a shop. Aside from those two things here's my advice..drop a hundred on a decent tool set (ther's always some sort of 200 piece mechanics set on sale somewhere) and buy a Chilton's or Haynes manual, and live on this website. Anything you will possibly come across has been dealt with already by one of our members, responses come quick, and there's alot of knowledge to be learned. Even if every single piece of your suspension had to be replaced (trailing arms, control arms, hubs, etc..) most of them come off with only a few bolts and some elbow grease. carpartsmit.com is a great site for oem replacement pieces. There's six million different shock/spring set ups. I run a set of tein superstreet coilovers, and absolutely love them. There's lots of cheaper alternatives tho..KYB's and a set of Eibach's have been proven a million times over. Lastly, there's a great chance that your motor mounts are probably bad as well, look into Prothane for replacement inserts.

Onto brakes. Hawk HPS is by far the best all around pad I have ever run. They aren't too expensive (hunt around, you can do all four corners for about $120). Buy a set of oem spec replacement rotors, or a set of slotted if you like. Lets face the facts, if your car is barely handling and stopping as is, just bringing things back to oem spec should make a world of difference. Sure you could do a gsx dual piston caliper upgrade, some stainless lines, aggressive pads, and expensive rotors. But way back in the day before i did any of these, my car stopped just fine with everyday use and some "spirited" driving here and there with just some powerslot rotors and a set of ebc green stuff pads.

Onto 60,000 mile maint.
1. Change oil and filter: I use Mobil1 synthetic
2. Check and fill all fluids to proper level: self explanitory
3. Check all drive belts: If you end up having a shop replace your timing belt, have all the other belts changes as well.
4. Check emissions filters: do a search on EGR delete, and follow the instructions if you are in an area with smog testing.
5. Inspect exhaust components: We already know you have a leak, buy a new cat-back or have your hole welded shut by a muffler shop, or anyone you know who can weld.
6. Replace spark plugs: NGK BPR7ES, you should probably do wires as well
7. Drain and replace engine coolant: Theres a drain plug on your radiator, pop it and refill
8. Chack and possibly replace battery: Optima is well worth the money

There's more to the 60,000 mile, but that should be what you need to get you headed in the right direction. I'd also recommend replacing your fuel filter at this time. One all of these are done you should have a relatively solid platform to begin modding with. You mentioned transmission problems, please elaborate. Your total thusfar should be under $1800 (depending on suspension set up and shop labor). There's planty of routes to go for power, all to be discussed later. You need to take care of the required first, and set a realistic HP goal for yourself. If your car is on it's last legs, aim for 300whp, you'll have money leftover, and room to upgrade later. There's plenty of us on here to help you reach your power goals, no matter what they are...good luck!

good post bro however, i think my option was the best. jest my .02

 

[Big28 2gFWD]

Thanks mits. I cant really say either option is better than the other. I was thinking more along the lines of modding on a budget. My option should leave him with a car that handles and stops decently, with about 5k to spend on go-fast goodies and supporting mods. BUT having an already stout platform to begin modding isn't a bad idea either, only flaw I saw in that was that if he drops that 7-10k on a better condition DSM, he's going to be left with a stock DSM in the end. And lets be honest with ourselves here...210hp vs. 3100lbs doesn't exactly make for a fast car, stock suspension and brakes leave plenty to be desired. And honestly, if he's in the market for a used DSM, there's a good chance it's going to require most of the maintence previously stated regardless, so why not start with something he already owns and knows the history of? Like I said, neither option is a bad one, After rereading my post I realized I failed to mention wheels. I think the original post stated he had two bent rims. Figure out how much you want to spend on wheels and tires, and go from there when looking for a style that suits you. I'm a big Rota fan, only because they offer the quality of high end wheel..but at a knock-off brand price. ADR is another cost effective alternative. NO 18's!!! Find a nice set of 17x8 an a decent 235/45/17 tire. (KUHMO ECSTA MX???) and you should be happy until you start making big number long down the road. You can realtistically find a wheel tire combo that will preform well for around $1200. Still leaving another $3000 to play with