Good way to clean fuel injectors? Also, DSM pro advice needed --->

[mhuffman]

Is there a better way to clean fuel injectors than to just run fuel system cleaner thru the system? I've already run a good cleaner thru and the problem hasn't gone away.

I am getting a bad misfire above 4k rpm's at full boost, perfect driveability when i'm not WOT. I recently put in NGK plugs and Accel wires so those shouldn't be the problem. I've also done a pressure test and i dont have major leaks. I'm not throwing a CEL, and i get good (25+) gas mileage. 91 FWD turbo... The car spins tires in second gear so its not like its low on power. But it drives terrible at WOT high rpm ever since i did my 2.5" cat and 3" DP.

I'm thinking it's either my ignition coil or one or more of my fuel injectors. Any ideas?

 

[Buckeye-Talon]

A 9v battery is what worked for me. I don't know what the rest of you guys are talking about.

 

[steve]

I never doubted that it was a original FSM but I couldn't tell which company and what year.
It is either in error or your looking at the wrong page since that section is marked for the 2.0L DOHC which covers both the turbo and non-turbo versions. It wouldn't be the first error. That's why they have TSB's to correct their mistakes. Try looking at page 188 in your manual.

Hopefully we can get back to the OP and stop trying to correct all the misinformation being spread around.

Steve

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

A couple questions.

1. Where on that page does it say it is for turbo injectors. I didn't see anything, other than pictures that look like 4g63 pics, but I wouldn't trust that to tell me what I was working on. Maybe I missed something, but I saw no indication the procedure was for turbo injectors.

2. Does anyone know the difference between "heavy duty" batteries and others? All I know is that heavy duty batteries seem to work well in single draw things like flashlights, but fail miserably in many devices. It seems BISHILVER is going off heavy duty batteries. If there is a current difference that may explain some things.


I have never tried this with a 1.5 volt battery. I have done it with a standard 9-volt and that held the injector open for as long as I needed.

 

[BISHILVR]

A 9volt is the only thing I could get to work too guys, thanks for backing that up. So we do know that the 9volt will work.

 

[motomattxxx]

Yeah, I tried a AA battery tonight and it doesnt work for me either.

 

[mhuffman]

could be fuel cut also

Actually, it is fuel cut, ive been researching for hours and im sure its fuel cut, but i dont know why. Im gonna remove the lower honeycomb and pressure test the intake. Hopefully that'll solve everything.

 

[steve]

If your profile is correct then don't hack anything. Get you hands on a logger and find out what's going on.

 

[xioca]

Bam.. what can I say...


http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s111/xioca12/?action=view&current=MOV00369-1.flv


You can see it drip through when i added the carb cleaner, and it stop when I disconnect the Double A Battery.

Also it was akward holding it like that so I didn't get a real good seal when I blew compressed air through it.

 

[MarkAngelo05]

Actually, it is fuel cut, ive been researching for hours and im sure its fuel cut, but i dont know why. Im gonna remove the lower honeycomb and pressure test the intake. Hopefully that'll solve everything.

mhuffman,

, guess you didn't get to try the whole injector testing instructions that everyone was talking about.

Accels ARE known for EMI and Arcing which causes stutter at 4krpm, I've had it, and sent the new set of accels back to the manufacturer. Any spark plug wire is fragile and one it is kinked or damaged in any way, it will emit RF/EMI. They sent me a new set and it's worked pretty good for me for the past 20 miles I've driven the car.

Fuel cut at Partial throttle at 4k rpms?? In my oppinion its not, unless you have a MAJOR BOOST LEAK and its OVER SPOOLING your turbo and causing your MAS to Read excessive amounts of air.

I had stutter problems several different occasions on my car. Here are my experiences; Check your plug gap(.028 for 15 psi or more) I Know you stated you installed new ones, but just posting up info for future references. Enlarged gaps can lead to a lot of things including arcing and RF noise/Electro magnetic interference, because electricity will take the path of least resistance and generally can be between the wires IF the gap got enlarged.

Check your hose to your Fuel pressure regulator, I once T'd it off and installed my boost controller on that hose and I had problems because my boost controller was a bleeder type and blead air, which did not give me an accurate reading, so it stuttered at Partial throttle around 4k rpms,

Try your stock set of plug wires (if they are still good) or borrow a friend's wires to diagnose your wires.

How much boost are you boosting? also, please do a boost leak test and let us know what your outcome is on that.

Hey, I just went back to your original post and saw you already ran a leak test. EVEN though you just put those new wires in, doesn't mean they are not defective. I had the same problems with my brand new in box accels, and used my stock wires while I sent those accels for warranty and it worked perfectly fine but they were at its last leg, and started giving me stutter problems as well after a few hundred miles. I just received my new accels from the factory, and those have worked fine since the last few miles I've used them.

Hope this helps!

Take care!
'
Mark Padilla

 

[TrboSupra]

So you can use a AA Battery to open up an injector?

 

[steve]

So you can use a AA Battery to open up an injector?

If you read the thread then this would be a reasonable conclusion from the reports of most of the people who tried it.

Why do you ask?

Steve

 

[luv2rallye]

It appears to work for most but not everyone according to the posts. Perhaps more sticky ones don't. If it doesn't work, you can always use a 12V car or motorcycle battery with the proper series resistor (5.5-6.5 ohms for turbo engines).

 

[steve]

If it doesn't work, you can always use a 12V car or motorcycle battery with the proper series resistor (5.5-6.5 ohms for turbo engines).

Finding the proper wattage series resistor will be a challenge for most people. The easiest sources would be the junkyard for a resistor pack from a turbo DSM or Radio Shack for 8 ohm 20W one.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...ors&fbc=1&kw=power+resistor&parentPage=search

Remember that running the injectors static (open 100% of the time) off 12v is hard on them and going to generate a bit of heat in both the injector and the resistor. Normally the injector has fuel running through it to cool it and the resistors have the car body as a heatsink.

You'll note that professional shops will pulse the injector during cleaning and testing.

Steve

 

[luv2rallye]

WOW!!! - perfect comment and great suggestion Steve (even down to the non-inductive resistor). If you we'nt already a wiseman I'd give you reputation for that one!
Ya if the AA battery doesn't work do exactly as Steve says.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Now were getting some good stuff!

I mentioned earlier that I had used a 9 volt battery to open an injector before. (Specifically, I believe I was testing the secondary injector on my Conquest). Some of the resistance talk earlier went over my head. Does anyone have any input if using a 9 volt would risk damaging the injector or would it be a safe way to open it?

 

[motomattxxx]

A nine volt should be fine as long as you dont have it open for a long period of time.