The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Timing tensioner pulley moves?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

vexixx

15+ Year Contributor
99
1
Jun 14, 2004
West Mifflin, Pennsylvania
The pulley itself... Should it be just able to spin or is it able to move... Mine is somehow capable of moving up and down. I'm curious how this is possible? Makes no sense me honestly.
 
The tensioner pulley mounts to an arm that is capable of moving up and down during the course of it's operation (although not much). However, the pulley itself should not have any motion other than spinning.

With that said, that particular pulley is an "offset" pulley. Meaning that the shaft centerline is different than the pulley centerline, creating a "wobble" effect as it spins.
 
The pulley itself... Should it be just able to spin or is it able to move... Mine is somehow capable of moving up and down. I'm curious how this is possible? Makes no sense me honestly.

Does it do this with the belt installed and tensioned?
 
I haven't gotten that far. I'm waiting for the the auto tensioner to come in. When i was taking it out I noticed that the when trying to loosen the nut on the pulley that it was moving up and down. I haven't seen that before.
 
That is because it is a cam style tensioner pulley. That is how you set tension. I would reccomend taking it to someone to do the timing belt job if you aren't fermilliar with that setup, it should be retensioned every time you have the belt off.
 
The tensioner pulley is eccentric so that after head/block milling, the belt is still easily tensioned.

It is most important that the gap in between the hydraulic tensioner, and the arm is correct.

I usually achieve this by using the timing tool.....

With the tool, I depress the hydraulic tensioner down enough to pin it but I do not pin it..., Then I string the belt on, and set the exhaust cam 1 tooth DOWN below 9 o clock and clamp the belt to both gears right there..I put a feeler gauge with the correct thickness in between the arm and tensioner, and let the tensioner out just a bit, like 1/2- 3/4 of a turn of the tool, then I rotate the tensioner pulley UP COUNTERCLOCKWISE and snug the bolt up....I tighten the tool and depress the tensioner back to where I can pin it, and then I torque the bolt to the spec in the book.., then I slowly release tension with the tool and I have never had a problem.

I have done it the BS way, Vice, Pry Bar, vice grips.....Never felt comfortable doing it that way though...

Good luck....cylinder heads and head gaskets aren't cheap...
 
Haha, The tensioner arm moves up and down and the Tensioner Pulley bolts TO the arm...I be that is what he is thinking...

Anyways, here is a good reference pic from Vfaq.com

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Haha, The tensioner arm moves up and down and the Tensioner Pulley bolts TO the arm...I be that is what he is thinking...

So taking a better look at it today in the day time I notice that your right. The rocker arm was what was moving(along with the pulley since there attached ). I see how the auto tensioner will push up on that and then it'll just spin. Thanks guys. Got the auto tensioner in today, not sure if theres enough daylight, but hopefully I can get my car together and get it tunned soon!~:cool: :dsm:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top