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Does this sound right? 16G Flapper Door.

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2bclutch

15+ Year Contributor
203
1
Jan 10, 2006
Richardson, Texas
I asked the people doing the porting on my turbo this question because I had seen something about it before: Do you guys grind out the bit of metal behind the flapper door so the door can open a full 90 degrees?

He said: Well there’s no reason to remove that material because even if we did, the throw of the actuator arm doesn’t allow for it to open 90 Degrees.


Does that sound right?
 
The flapper does indeed not open 90*, so unless you relocate the post on the flapper armature to which the actuator arm connects, it won't open any further than it does now, ported or not. I ported mine before I knew that information. It probably didn't hurt anything, but it most likely didn't help anything, either. The guys doing your porting know what they're talking about.

To port to reduce boost creep, focus mainly on the inlet to the wastegate, in the turbine inlet area, opening up a better path to the wastegate opening.
 
i was worried about this myself, would open 3in dp cause boost creep on a 14b ( with everything ported, wastegate especially ) ?

MrBoxx said:
To port to reduce boost creep, focus mainly on the inlet to the wastegate, in the turbine inlet area, opening up a better path to the wastegate opening.

How much does this help?

Ive been hearing two different opinions on boost creep with 14b's.
By the way I wont be running open dp for but 2 weeks and then the rest is getting ran back.
 
Auto RS T said:
Here's a pic of the inlet area. The wastegate opening is visible. This is what MR Boxx is reffering to. Port Away!


Thanks but still doesnt answer my question ?-

nightspeed87 said:
How much does this help?

Ive been hearing two different opinions on boost creep with 14b's.
By the way I wont be running open dp for but 2 weeks and then the rest is getting ran back.
 
nightspeed87 said:
Thanks but still doesnt answer my question ?-

The picture was for (2bclutch) in case he decides to port the turbo hisself.

I've never really had any issues with boost creep so I don't think I have enough experience to help you with your question. I didn't want to post misinformation from my "opinion".
 
The area above the wastegate entrance in that picture is usually ported more to let the exhaust gasses hit the wastegate 'tunnel' and exit through the wastegate easier to reduce creep. When I ported mine, I didn't port that area, but haven't experienced any creep at all on my 14b. If and when I upgrade to a 3" downpipe, that may occur, but on a stock downpipe, my boost stays rock-steady at 16psi, no creep, no spike.
 
MrBoxx said:
The area above the wastegate entrance in that picture is usually ported more to let the exhaust gasses hit the wastegate 'tunnel' and exit through the wastegate easier to reduce creep. When I ported mine, I didn't port that area, but haven't experienced any creep at all on my 14b. If and when I upgrade to a 3" downpipe, that may occur, but on a stock downpipe, my boost stays rock-steady at 16psi, no creep, no spike.


But like I said im going to be running open 3in dp for a week and I dont want any creeping during this time ( especially since im breaking in my engine still. )

I will go back and make sure we fully ported everything around the wg area to ensure the best possible resistance against creep...
Some say 14bs generally dont creep once ported, even on open dp, but one wiseman told me differently and said on open dp any turbo just about will creep on the stock wg . Any more opinions or tips for me?
 
2bclutch said:
So having the WG flapper open a full 90 degrees isn't really a big deal, the fact that I'm having the 34mm door put on, the inlet ported, and the 02 housing ported is all that will really matter?


no i dont think it opens 90 degrees because of the actuator rod
but maybe there saying just porting it out fully ( whats in picture )will take care of the problem. ( at least for most ppl )
 
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