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12psi 420a?

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Yes, there's an electronic kind. But those are a little pricey, and probably uneccessary for you at this point. Just look into a basic ball/spring type manual boost controller. They're cheap, efficient, and reliable. You can even make one if you want to save money.
 
Joe P, Hallman... both are good names. Manual boost controllers are hard to screw up the manufacturing of. Even knockoffs (of the ball/spring type) are OK. Just keep in mind that a brand name MBCs might have more/better features like a locking knob.
 
I have that exact boost controller except the real turbosmart version of course hehe...and oh yeah, I don't have that laggy in cabin version, I love it! Of course it has the locking knob too :thumb:
 
So explain this lagg to me? The boost controller can acually cause turbo lagg? what do you guys mean when you say slow wastegate reaction? what are the symptoms? fast spike in boost then it drops down to 7 or 8?. In what application would you use the top port on the wastegate? what is that for vacuum?
 
The top port is for when you're using an electronic boost controller.

When we say "slow wastegate response," we mean that the boost may spike a little before the wastegate kicks in and relieves exhaust pressure around the turbine.

About the bleeder type MBC supressing full spool until later in the RPM range... this isn't "turbo lag" in the typical sense. A bleeder type MBC works by relieving boost into the atmosphere before reaching the wastegate actuator. This is essentially a boost leak. As you know, any boost leak can delay the onset of full boost. Ball/spring MBCs operate in a closed system, so no pressure is lost, and full boost is reached as quickly as possible.
 
I'm actually surprised you built boost with that open vacuum. Or, that may be why you want 12 psi rather then the 8 you've already set. You're proabbly not feeling a full 8 psi of boost..
 
Thanks for the Help! So while I was looking around I found out that one of my rubber IC pipe connetors was tore and leaking :cry: :notgood: So I fixed the boost leak and hooked up my Bosst controller like in Paul's Diagram. Now it works like it should and I'm running 6-7psi. I don't think that boost leak was helping the problem.

I just put a testpipe on my car and I just noticed white smoke today. Is that just cause I took the cat off or do you thing my rings are going bad? If I do a compression test will that tell me if the rings are bad? The car seems to stink real bad now and it has some smoke when I start it up then it goes away. Its thicker than the normal steam dew smoke in the morning. I checked my coolant level and its ok. Should I not worry about it?
 
See, I am having the same problem myself. I smell exhaust, oil, or feul at either lights or just driving around. It seems that NOT having a CAT would be it, but I don't know for sure either.

Did it just start smelling AFTER you took the CAT out? Did you notive any extra HP with the pipe in?

If it started after the test pipe install then I would put my money on that being the problem.

Can anyone else vouch for this after a test pipe install from the CAT? I'm definately getting a hi flow 3" CAT because EVERY girl that gets in my car notices the smell from my exhaust and complain how it stinks all the time... :rolleyes:
Don't worry about the faint smoke in the morning, it's just condensation evaporating...
 
Yeah it just started after I did the Cat, It has been a week since I put on the test pipe. Now she smells like a 1970 nova when I drive haha. I hope its not my rings.
I couldn't feel any noticalbe diffrence when I did the tsst pipe... do you think it really helps that much?
 
Blitzeclips said:
I'm definately getting a hi flow 3" CAT because EVERY girl that gets in my car notices the smell from my exhaust and complain how it stinks all the time... :rolleyes:
Click to expand...


I hear ya on that. I think I want to pick up a 3" highflow as well, and see if I can pass emissions with it on up in seattle.

But at the same time in in Jeff's position as well worrying about my ringlands
 
Run a leak down test. Thats the best way you'll find out. If need be, do a compression test also. This will let you know what is going on internally, well it will give you an idea.

It's either burning oil or coolant snuck in from a blown HG. If you're compression numbers are far off this could be a headgasket problem.

Just to be clear here, you noticed the smoke right after you put the test pipe in? If you don't notice any noises or problems when driving the car or at idle, and it started directly after you put the pipe in, I can see why the test pipe would suddenly cause smoke.
 
Yeah I noticed the smoke right after the test pipe install. And I don't hear any knocking, ticking or any other sounds, it idles smooth and runs powerfully. I think I'm just not used to the smell,fumes/smoke without a CAT. I may have a few very small pin holes exhaust leaks too :(

How do I do a leak down test?
 
You need a special gauge and an air compressor to do a leakdown test. Take your car around to a few shops and see if they can do it for you. Specify that you want a leakdown test and NOT a compression test. If anyone tells you compression tests and leakdown tests are the same thing, take your car somewhere else.

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/leakdown.htm
 
You should let us know how long it takes before your motor blows on that amount of boost. I bet it will take longer then people expect, its all in the tuning.
 
somdturbo said:
You should let us know how long it takes before your motor blows on that amount of boost. I bet it will take longer then people expect, its all in the tuning.
Click to expand...


Well that post on 2gnt was in March and he said its been running for over 2 months like that so its going on 10-11 months now.
 
Let's not get into HP estimates... If Brian saw this thread, I'm sure he'd remind us all how psi isn't an indication of power, just air pressure. :)
 
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