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Initial settings for S-AFC - everyone's opinion

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shadywang said:
ok..heres what i have, and my problem....any help is great

1G talon 6 bolt
stock internals
16G turbo
550 CC injectors
3 inch MAF w. translator V.2.10
AFC

i tried setting the MAFT to zeroed out, and tried to tune with AFC, but it still idles like crap, between 900-1500 rpms fluctuating, sometimes stalling. also, my readings on my AFC for my O2 are really low at idle, .000 to .015. nothin on my A/F gauge unless i give it some throttle. any help would be great. i did search, nothing really with the same problem using the MAFT. thanks

Ron

First check for boost/vacuum leaks. Make sure you have wired the MAFT correctly (the dip switches are correct). You could even put the MAF back in to see if it idles better. Don't bother looking at the A/F gauge, it doesn't tell you anythin usefull.


Pizzy, is that the one that just modifies the stock FPR? I wouldn't consider it crap because you can't lower the pressure.
 
Omega said:
Pizzy, is that the one that just modifies the stock FPR? I wouldn't consider it crap because you can't lower the pressure.

Yes that's the one I'm talking about...where you have to cut off the top of the stock FPR. Don't get me wrong, it's good for raising fuel pressure, but if it would need to be lowered as is usually the case with an upgraded pump (ie 255) then it doesn't do you much good as far as I understand it.
 
Pizzy said:
Yes that's the one I'm talking about...where you have to cut off the top of the stock FPR. Don't get me wrong, it's good for raising fuel pressure, but if it would need to be lowered as is usually the case with an upgraded pump (ie 255) then it doesn't do you much good as far as I understand it.


My thought was that the OEM FPR could not let enough fuel back to the tank. With that upgrade, it was better flowing therefore you were able to keep the stock FP. It would allow the standard FP and anything above that (to a point mind you). I thought that the main reason people didn't like it was because it kinda cheesey in it's means. I have never known anyonw want to run a low fuel pressure. I personally have issues with hacking up parts that deal with fuel.
 
I don't have a problem hacking anything up honestly. But no, I thought that if you have a 255 pump with a stock FPR, it is completely overrun and your fuel pressure is higher than stock. That's why you would need an AFPR that turns the pressure down, because the stock FPR can only keep stock levels with a weaker pump (190 is the highest you can still use the stock FPR I think).

Someone chime in if I'm completely wrong, but I've never heard anything different.
 
LandoAWD said:
I guess you need a logger.
I'm buying one soon, I just have a good deal on injectors right now, wich i gotta take first, and i also can borrow one so Thanks I will come back with more Info

Pizzy said:
But no, I thought that if you have a 255 pump with a stock FPR, it is completely overrun and your fuel pressure is higher than stock. That's why you would need an AFPR that turns the pressure down, because the stock FPR can only keep stock levels with a weaker pump (190 is the highest you can still use the stock FPR I think).
well at idle i am still at 37psi so there is nothing wrong, i still don't know how it is at wot so ....?
I didn't know better when i bought it, and people were telling me to buy it so i did, and it is good for now

Well like i said i will get a logger and then after i tuned it with wideband and logger, i will come back :thumb:
 
AND WHAT IF YOU HAVE A WALBRO 255 LPH FPR "HIGH PRESSURE VERSION" LIKE ME... I DONT SEEM TO HAVE A FUEL PROBLEM RUNNING 680s. I ASSUMED I WOULDNT NEED AN AFPR BECAUSE THE FUEL PUMP WOULD SUPPLY SUFFICIENT PRESSURE. AM I WRONG?? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
14b
gm maft set for 650's v1.3 3" maf
walbro 255
aeromotive fpr


since my maft is adjusted to 650's, i dont have to lean it out 35% like some of you guys. So with the standard th points, im like 2% across the board but at 6k im at 6%, egt's shoot up around 6k so i added some fuel and they went down.

My laptop has been down for a while, so i tuned it with my ass. Seems to run good.
 
papifry said:
AND WHAT IF YOU HAVE A WALBRO 255 LPH FPR "HIGH PRESSURE VERSION" LIKE ME... I DONT SEEM TO HAVE A FUEL PROBLEM RUNNING 680s. I ASSUMED I WOULDNT NEED AN AFPR BECAUSE THE FUEL PUMP WOULD SUPPLY SUFFICIENT PRESSURE. AM I WRONG?? :confused: :confused: :confused:


No need to shout.

You have it backwards. The high pressure pump you have over runs (supplies more fuel than the stock FPR can handle) the FPR. I think the base FP on your 1G is around 38 PSI (at idle with the hose DISconnected) Your stock FPR is not able to return enough fuel to the tank so your base FP is higher. an aftermarket FPR is able to return more fuel therefore your FP goes back to normal. You are not lowering it persay, just able to get it normal. Now if you want to run lower than stock (why you would want to is beyond me) then the honkin FPR will do that.
 
Omega said:
You are not lowering it persay, just able to get it normal.

Sorry about shouting...

So now the question of the day is.....
Will running a higher than stock fuel pressure hurt anything?? :confused:
 
papifry said:
So now the question of the day is.....
Will running a higher than stock fuel pressure hurt anything?? :confused:

And the answer of the day is...
Potentially. Aside from that the car isn't running at it's best...why upgrade halfway especially when that half isn't doing you too much good? To benefit from the 255 you really need an AFPR.
 
I can't tune at all iI suck really bad at it and im tring to sell the car so I want it to be impressive to the future owner. I'll provide mod list if I can get some help tuning.

Performance mods:
255 walbro fuel pump,550cc injectors,s-afc2,stage 3 chip in a 90 eprom ecu”includes sutter box”,poly motor mounts,turbo xs bc, greddy type s bov,fmic with hard piping, big 16g ported, evo 3 exhaust manifold, 2 ½ downpipe with 2 ½ exhaust all the way back, otto racing muffler,90 head ported and polished on exhaust and intake, 2nd gen throttle body elbow,2nd gen maf sensor wired in, act prolite flywheel, act 2600 street disc and pressure plate, tranny built by pro trans with galant first gear , brass synchros and phantom grip lsd conversion, egt gauge, airfuel gauge, boost gauge, shifter bushing kit for easier shifting, hks turbo timer, dsm logger on a m100 palm wired in the car,all emission off the car including a block plate for the egr,revised 3mm lifters. NO FPR.

Any help will be great.

Im buying a honda with good gas mileage can't afford the car anymore. :dsm: :cry:
 
I just need some good base lines so it doesn't buck on me at like 16 psi and up. It also has a stage 3 chip in a 90 eprom ecu with map settings for 550's and 255 walbro still have a bucking problem.
 
hey guys,

alright i have a problem. i installed 550cc fuel injectors and a safc2 today and i am new to this whole performance thing. my friend put in the injectors for me and i put in the safc. well the problem is that i can barely even keep the car running now, i have alredy tried just about every thing on the safc to fix it but i am not for sure what the settings should be set at so i an turning to my fellow dsmers. here is what i have done. the car is a 92 fwd talon turbo. mods that are done 3 inch downpipe and cat back exhaust, 550 fic injectors, blitz blowoff valve. so can some on tell me how to set this damn thing. also tomorrow i am putting on a walbro 255 fuel pump, aem fpr, and b&m fuel pres guage. what should i start with setting after that. and what should i set fuel press at.

thanks guys,
barry
 
:dsm: I have an AFC II & I cant set my Ne-Point settings in 500's it only let's me set it in 200's. So if I want to set an rpm of 1500 of to go with 1400rpm or 1600rpm. Anyone else having this problem? How do I get around this? Thanks! :thumb:
 
currently i have an evo III 16g ported with the 34mm wastegate with full 3 inch exhaust i have a rewired 190 walbro and a safc II ....660 injectors (not installed yet) aeromotive fpr (also not installed yet) i want to put them in and start adjusting my fuel because i cant get my safc tuned by a professional until next month... anyone have any tips? by the way no data logger yet
 
good shiz..i miss my DSM. i had to sell it ### it was falling apart.
but it was sure fun while it lasted.

peace out everyone


www.naturalcauseband.com
 
LOL i was checking my mail and seen that I had this subscribed. I got rid of my dsm as well, trying fox body route :D
 
here some totaly different settings:

1992 NT Eclipse
Turbo block, Wiesco 8.3:1 Pistons, Eagle Rods, No BS, NT Head, NT cams
GST fuelpump, GS FPR, 1G stock intercooler (no bumpercutting so no good cooling).
stock NT exhaust (of course GSX header and downpipe)

14B Turbo @ 12PSI, 450cc Inj., stock 1G MAS

fuel trims LT 98% MT 95% HT 87%

S-AFC Settings
LT 35% HT 90%

LT: 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000
4% 2% 0% 3% 6% 8% 13%

HT: 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000
-3% 0% 6% 15% 18% 16% 15%

O2 is 0.91-0.93V

Knock... 0 from 0-4000rpm... upto 5 knock from 4000-7000rpm.


upto 93% duty cycle but only using 93octan gas (actually 95octan but the rating here in germany is different so it should be similare to 93octan US gas)

and its not tuned 100% perfect yet...


btw. its the only streetlegal NT->T DSM convertion in germany :)
 
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