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[insanewayne]

Is 2.4 turbo hyped gone? Or where is he....could someone else who's done this swap please read my post. I mentioned it in my post on the last page...i just need to know if EV EVERYTHING bolts up off the 4g63..and other things mentioned in that thread.

Thanks

Wayne

 

[DarthBulk]

yes

You can buy EVERYTHING else, besides the timing belt and cam gears, for a 4G63. That means the timing belt tensioner, oil pan, oil pump, idler pulleys, brackets, enigne mounts, etc. etc. etc. I know this, because I have done it.

 

[DarthBulk]

The g4cs block is the ONLY part of the motor that is different from the 4g63. A timing belt from a dohc 2.4 1990 glant gs and both of the cam gears are the only other thing that is not swapped over from the 4g63. Its a straight forward bolt up. Well worth the mere 1000 dollars or so it cost me to build this motor. Regards, Sean

I just wanted to clarify one point here...I just called the Mitsubishi dealer to order a timing belt for my G4CS beast and they said there is no such thing as a 1990 Galant with a DOHC 2.4L engine. They told me the correct timing belt to order is from a 1994 Galant GS, which apparently is the only model Galant that came with a DOHC 2.4L engine. He had about 9 other timing belt options for Galants, but they were all for SOHC engines.

 

[peregrine]

so is that the right timing belt? the one for the 1994 Galant GS?

 

[hose101772]

Yes-and the cam gears aswell for those who want to cheap out and not buy adjustable ones.

 

[insanewayne]

Or you could really cheap out and remark the 63 ones like me....for now anyways...

 

[huafist]

You'll need the timing belt, cam gears, and head gasket (because of bore size) for the 1994 Galant DOHC engine. Everything else should work fine.

FWIW, you'll have to tap the hole in the back of the block for the knock sensor.

 

[peregrine]

FWIW, you'll have to tap the hole in the back of the block for the knock sensor.

so there IS a hole in the back? no drilling needed?

 

[huafist]

so there IS a hole in the back? no drilling needed?

Aye. It's the same block as the 63 except for deck height and bore size. The hole is there, but it'll have to be tapped.

 

[peregrine]

cool deal. thats easy enough to do.

 

[DarthBulk]

Ok, I just ran into a problem with this setup. I took my G4CS engine that I have built up off the engine stand, to put my ACT Streetlite flywheel on it. I have an ACT 600155 flywheel. When I tried to put it on the engine, I discovered the end of my crankshaft has a raised center section, inside the bolt hole circle. That raised center section protrudes out from the end of the crankshaft about 1/8 inch or so, and prevents the flywheel from sitting flush against the end of the crank. All 6 bolt holes are held about 1/8 away from the crank. Has anyone else run into this problem? Do you need the Hyundai flywheel? Does that one have the recess machined into it for the raised section in the crank end? Or am I missing something here? Any help would be appreciated, as I am stuck until I get this resolved.

 

[tokyo_tad]

is the g4cs crank from an auto? If so, I believe there is a piece on the end of the crank that you have to remove. I forget what you call it. Others have had the same problem.

 

[DarthBulk]

Thanks for the reply. I don't know for sure, but I would guess it is from an auto. I was looking through the shop manuals and I see that there is a spacer plate used with the auto flywheel, but I didn't see anything that looked like that raised section on the end of the crankshaft. I'll go out to the shop again, and see if that is a removeable piece. If not, I guess I have two options. Machine out a recess in my flywheel, or get a spacer made that will raise the bolt hole face on the crank to the level of that raised center section. Neither one is attractive. How did everyone else solve this problem?

 

[hose101772]

About the crank spacer--I welded a pushrod to it and just walked it out but I sure theres a million ways to get it out.Anyway it does have to come out for a 5spd flywheel.

The timing belt is from a 94 galant-part # md182292 and you might want to check on the timing cover from the same car as the 63 one comes up short on the top side.

As far as the knock sensor hole goes-you can either drill and tap it or weld a nut on top of the spot thats there.

One other thing and this is for anyone doing a balance shaft delete.Mitsu has this spacer available that lets you get rid of the balance shaft pulley on the crank.Part # md128107,costs like $6.

 

[2.4 turbo Hyped]

It comes out. My favorite method is using a bfh and a screwdriver. I have also pulled this pressed in piece with a vice grip pliers. Have fun while doing it. Put on a batman costume or something it makes it more enjoyable.

 

[DarthBulk]

Ok, problem solved. Thanks for the help...that piece was removable, but it definitely was a PITA. No Batman costume was required, but I did play some Metallica rather loud while I was working on it So my flywheel is the correct one, and I have it and my clutch installed now...should be able to put the engine in the car this weekend!

 

[DaveSM]

Simple and easy trick for that 'pilot' or 'input shaft' bearing thing is to stuff in wet toilet paper, and then find a blank rod or socket of slightly undersize to fit in, and then hammer it. The wet toilet paper is incompressible and will force out the bearing. 2 minutes.

 

[2.4 turbo Hyped]

Nice trick!! I never have tried that but will keep it in my book.

 

[!gottadream!]

I had a question, the g64b block is the wide one right? What tranny bolts to that block? it is rwd right? what all is the same for the 4g63 and the g64b? thanks
P.S. I am wanting the rwd for a project front engine fiero drag car. thanks

 

[2.4 turbo Hyped]

The rods between the g64b and the 4g63 are identical. The g64b would be a great sleeper in that fiero sounds like a painful yet rewarding project.

 

[na90dsm]

little more interesting info. i have a 4g64 wideblock in my garage that bolts up to a starion trans. the mighty max had a wideblock version of the 4g64 that was a 6-bolt block, the 6-bolt 4g63 head slides on the deck good but the holes need to be modded like normal.

the crank and all are the same as reg 4g63 blocks. its a hell of a lot wider then the 63 block. its in classifieds if anyone is interested.

im 95% sure it fits the starion trans. my buddy is on starion boards and people have doen it with other wideblock. people have done it with this block but only reason i say 95% is i havent dont it personally.

 

[2.4 turbo Hyped]

little more interesting info. i have a 4g64 wideblock in my garage that bolts up to a starion trans. the mighty max had a wideblock version of the 4g64 that was a 6-bolt block, the 6-bolt 4g63 head slides on the deck good but the holes need to be modded like normal.

the crank and all are the same as reg 4g63 blocks. its a hell of a lot wider then the 63 block. its in classifieds if anyone is interested.

The crank in the 4g63 has an 88mm stroke. The 4g64 and g4cs and g64b cranks all have 100mm strokes.

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

Hey ive been reading this entire thread and all of you are doing either a g4cs block with a 4g63 head with forged pistons and stuff... Well I noticed Swordfish posted a link to Use our original 4g63 block with the g4cs crank.. This would make it a 2.3L if im correct and then all that would need to be done would be to bore out the block .40 over to get the 2.4L i think... Plus custom Dish pistons to lower the compression.... This way seems cheaper to me just to find a g4cs crank and buy some forged dish pistons to get the compression ratio at 8.7:1 or 9:1.... why isnt anybody going this route??? is there anything wrong besides the fact that you have to machine a bit of the block and bridges of the 4g63 for the rods to clear them????? Let me know becuase i was planning on going this route seeing that already have a g4cs crank and 2 extra 6bolt 4g63 short blocks laying around...

 

[na90dsm]

yup. i have the stock crank from the 4g64. was luckly in the block when i got it. its a 100mm stroke crank

 

[!gottadream!]

how much do u think a starion tranny could hold up to? I just put a 4.5L v8 in my 85gt pontiac fiero and havent quite got it running yet. I heard that a wideblock will bolt up to a gm tranny too. does anyone know of any truth in that?