where do i go from here??

[Logue]

I posted this in problems first but got no responce maybe becuease the question is to hard or to dumb. idk. I'm sorry if posting this again is against the rules. I'm posting this here becuease i really need to tell the machine shop what to do and not waste more money and time. So please anything you say will be helpful.



alright this all started about a 2 weeks ago.

I bought a n/t 6 bolt it's .20 over 1,000 miles on it. he spun a rod bearing crank is trashed. i'm building it up over the next few months and putting it my awd.

well 2 nights ago i was on the interstate and came out of the toll plaza 1st, 2nd, top of 3rd, then instead of 3rd to 4th i did 2nd.... Big mistake about 8500-9000 rpms on my topline internals rebuilt 7 bolt with 10,000 miles on it. Well the engine started to knocked. Only when the rpms would drop though. I got it towed back home.
125 bucks later .

did a compression check from 1 though 4 and they were 135,140,145,145.
then a did a wet test 165, 200,200,200
i guess the rings are shot. idk

i thought i bent valves in the #1 cylinder thats why the wet test was only 165. So i pulled the head no bent valves, no piston damage, all the timing marks lined up. I pulled the oil pan no bearings but there were 3 little tiny stripes of aluminum about an inch long they were in the oil pickup filter. In the process of pulling the crank pulley that was kind of stuck on, the crank moved toward me. first thoughts were mother@$&!er. Crankwalk. now i don't have a end-dial gauge checker but i used a ruler and place it against the block pushed the crank all the way passenger side, measured. Pulled the crank toward driver side the crank moved 3.5mm back and forth. There are no signs of bearing in the oil pan only those 3 little aluminum strips thinner than a paperclip. Are they peices of the thrust bearing??

This is half of it. So i go to the n/t block flip it over the crank is still in it and hasn't been taking out yet so i push on the crank and it moved too. I'm like what the crap is going on. It's a 90 n/t 6 bolt with a spun rod bearing. That crank moved back and forth 2mm. I brought the 6 bolt to the machine shop today and he said that who ever did the rebuild on the motor before installed the thrust bearing in the wrong spot they put it in the cap closest to the flywheel. The machine shop owner said that is the reason the crank was moving. Does this sound right?

He is still going to take the rest of it apart, get a good core crank and check the clearances. Should i trash this n/t block too or what? i don't want any more problems with moving cranks!!!

Please help me out!!

JJ

 

[blue1]

Start with your 7 Bolt, a motor wont chew out a thrust bearing from overreving it but you may have spun a conrod bearing in the overev causing knock down low. i think your thrust problem might have been there for a little while.
The six bolt, i only have my 4g64 block in pieces but when i measure the width of the journals were the bearings sit i cant see how they installed the thrust bearing on the last journal its wider!! the centre journal is machined to suit the thrust!
Dont know if the guy is having a lend of you or what!

 

[Logue]

i didn't understand either. the first thing the machine shop(name ed) said was the "thrust bearing is missing" than ed said wait a minute here it is. Sure enought i sawl it with my own eyes the thrust bearing was in the far journal. he than said that shouldn't be becuease the end jornal is a different size Ed said that before takin any measurements. but you have just said it to so i dont' know what to do.

If i chewed a bearing wouldn't there be bearing in the oil pan also. becuease there isn't

i'm about to completely disasmble the 7 bolt short block anyway i'll let you know.

 

[Logue]

Here is my 7 bolt thrust bearing.

Its pretty destroyed, along with the crank and the girdle.

JJ

 

[blue1]

Hey Logue thats pretty nasty! Reassemble the 6 Bolt with the bearings in the right spot (new bearings) and see what end float you have then? just look and make sure the thrust faces aren't damaged on the centre journal if it comes up ok you should be OK!!

The metal from the 7 bolt thrust: if you still have the oil that came out of it tip some on a nice clean white rag and see if it leaves copper and tin metallic residue, or stir up the oil and shin a light on it, see what you think! it would have been a gradual wearing process and you will only find some larger long pieces but not many. If you have a compressor pump just a small amount (10 Psi ) of air into your squirters and see if their working correctly or just flowing ( refer Magnus website). get back to me with your findings i am as interested as you!!
Paul.

 

[Logue]

alright well i mixed gear oil with the motor oil so thats gone. the sun was really bright the day i drained it i do remember the oil looking a little copperish.

what do you think about my compression numbers???
i pulled all the pistons and the rings look fine along with the cylinder walls??

I think i have a n/t turbo 7 bolt also. because i looked everywhere for the oil squirters and there aren't any?? the engine is stamped 4g63, not 4g63t like it should be...

i bought the car off of some complete scam artist, moron, #@ck-face.
my own fault for not knowing more about the car
i bought this car and 5 days later i spun a rod bearing so this 7 bolt was rebuilt once already and it has 10 months 10,000 miles on it and it crankwalked.

Also i have a 6 bolt head swap the car came with. The other interesting thing is that about a month after the rebuild i noticed a ticking coming from the belts area. Brought it back to the machine shop wanted them to check the crankshaft endplay. He said that everything was fine and he found the ticking problem it was the crank angle sensor the crank was rubbing it. So he took it off. Again dumbass me for reconizing the signs of crankwalk there. I think if my car had the 2nd gen head it would have stopped running along time ago as the crank angle sensor would have been destroyed. I had no other symptoms with crankwalk other than my pedal having different engangment points but i thought that was becuease of hydrulics and the fact that everyone has clutch problems in dsm's.

JJ

 

[blue1]

The rings i would say are tired or if they honed during the last build it wasnt a good one!. Deglaze bores with what we call a dunny brush? its a wire brush hone that has abrasive knobs on the ends of it! that will fix the ring sealing issues, Squirters on the 7 bolt aren't like the 6 bolt they are only a little nozzle that sticks out of the block aimed upwards ( sorry if you know this already)
Rebuild! go to another machine shop get someone who is known to the dsm chat room and i think your build prob's will disappear. Its hard not seeing and giving advice so i cant really help a lot but the chat room i have found to be brilliant for me, ask direct questions and you will soon work out the people that will give good feedback.
Good luck mate!
Paul

Ps i haven't left you in the lurch i still will keep an eye on your thread or if you are not sure with info someone has given you please get back in touch. i just feel the people closer to you will be more helpful than just someone from the other side of the world at the moment.