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ECMlink 2g Tuning Help??

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larryd

20+ Year Contributor
4,546
5
Nov 26, 2001
Bear, Delaware
Hey guys I finally got my laptop to work with DSMlink so I can start the wonderous mystery of tuning. I did a log this morning and I found something quite disturbing. Ive uploaded a screen shot of the log to my webserver at

http://www.newcelica.org/temp/dsmlink-10-02-02-1.jpg

Ive also uploaded the dat file to the files area of the dsmlink yahoo group. If you notice where I have the indicator bar right about 3800rpms when the boost starts to kick in really hard my timing is getting pulled really bad. I dont understand why because Im not getting any knock at all. The other wierd thing is it looks like as the boost is increasing so is my fuel but I have it set to -35% across the board.

I may be being very vague here so if you need more details then definitely let me know and Ill post everything up. My mods are all listed on my website at http://www.newcelica.org/larryd/index.htm

Major mods are the AGP L2R, Supra Pump, Bosch 650s and Charged Air AFPR.
 
At WOT what is your airflow? O2 and A/F ratio? Timing?
It is kinda hard to see what is happening without a way to tell what the readings are throughout the pull. Is there a way to log throttle position?
Looks like you got a little dip in the O2 which corresponds with timing drop around that marker. At the marker, is that WOT? Did you go straight to WOT or did you ease into the throttle to get to WOT? if you just plant it, the 2G willpull more timing than if you ease into it.
On the second pull you get some knock. how much is that?
how much boost are you running?
What fuel map are you running? they have choices like 550 and 650 injectors right? You are running the correct maps, right? What is the global correction? What are your rpm points like? Do they have any other fuel corrections, like idle or response? If so, what are they at?

if it is too much to post up, email or PM me. I'll help out where I can.

Also, what is your base fuel pressure?
 
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thats alot of information to answer..

at WOT its showing 37 lbs/min
o2 rating of 0.96
A/F of 9.5:1 (not reading right)

Im going to do a more accurate log soon to try and figure it out including the TPS and what not as well as all of my settings.

The knock was actually a very rare occasion..when the ECU pulled the timing it wasnt because of knock.

I was running about 1.3-1.4 bar on this log.

Fuel map is set at -35 globally and set for Bosch 650s..

RPM points are set at 950 idle, 4500 stall and 8500 limiter.

fuel corrections are only set at -35% global

hmm.. I think base fuel pressure is 32 but Id have to go look at it right now I cant remember off top of my head
 
Have you gotten your fuel trims to read correctly. That is a huge part of tuning according to dsmlink. They should be close to 0% at cruise and at a stand still. I assume that you have their two or three packets of instructions and information? Also, make sure you use their help forum. The people there are incredibly knowledgeable.
 
I think I may have found my issue.. my timing map is all wacked out..


RPM Fuel(%) Timing(deg)
500 - 6 0
1000 - 1 0
1500 - 1 -2
2000 - 1 -3
2500 - 1 -3
3000 - 1 -3
3500 - 1 -3
4000 0 -3
4500 - 1 -5
5000 0 -5
5500 0 -5
6000 0 -5
6500 0 -5
7000 0 -4
7500 0 -4
8000 0 -4
Global fuel: -35%
Dead time: +180 us

Im not sure why Wes set it this way but thats prolly why my timing is sooo low.. Im going to zero it and do more logs..
 
well i set it all to 0 and that didnt help.. my timing stayed low and my knock count went up :(.. turns out thats why Wes had it set so low in the beginning to keep the knock count down. Now Im wonderign if smoething is wrong with my base ignition timing.
 
hat did your knock go up to?
Have you tried to lower the boost?
Have you tried going leaner? .96 is pretty rich.

If you have access to it, throw in some Sunoco 100 or some race gas, draining the tank of pump first. Reset the ECU and log it, not changing any settings.
 
knock was as high as 18 on that one..

I cant lower my boost.. i have it as low as it will go with the profec right now and thats 1.3 bar.. thats a whole nother story on its own but Im going to be replacing the profec with a manual controller..

I havent even begun to touch the fuel settiings.

This has all been on 94 octane.


I wish you had DSMlink.. Id just show you my logs.. ofcourse if you really wanna help I can convert the logs to HTML and show you the raw text.
 
If you can put them to HTML for me, that would be cool. Ir even a graph of some sort so that I could see the numbers at different points in your run. Ultimately it would be easiest to go tuning with you but the 2 hour trip one way is a bit much.

Could you put some points? Like you have the indicator bar with the numbers on the bottom, can you photoshop in a couple indicator bars and their corresponding numbers?
 
I have the dsmlink programs on my computer still. Go ahead and post them if you can. I'm not as experienced as a lot of the guys here, but i'd be happy to take a look at them.
 
ok.. well that makes it easier.. Ive uploaded my logs to my webserver..

Right Click and Save As

http://www.newcelica.org/larryd/log/run10072002-1.dat

the one above is a 2nd and 3rd gear WOT run from about 2500rpms in 2nd through 7600 in 3rd.

http://www.newcelica.org/larryd/log/run10072002-2.dat

the one above is an idle log.

We have the timing turned down like -5 degrees to try and keep the car from knocking as the knock count goes through the roof when you have the timing set at 0. Im starting to wonder if the base ignition timing is off.
 
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Both links are the same. I changed the 1 to a 2 at the end of the file name. Was able to read the caption, but not see the file. Why is your timing at 12-16°? Should be around 8, I think. And also, unrelated, but why is your idle at 1200rpms?

I would adjust base timing if you can (you have the 6 bolt with 1G CAS sensor, right?) an set timing to 0 in DSMLink.

Do you have any other logs? preferably with timing and knock values?

Otherwise, O2 looks good on that log. What are EGTs at?

You shift at 7500rpm often? You monster!
 
i corrected the links above..

Timing is reading 12-16 at idle and I dont know what it should be reading.. becuase Wes was tellign me that doesnt show the base ignition timing.

Idle is set to 1200 right now to keep the oil pressure up in my car. I have the throttle cable pulled slightly to hold the throttle open just a little bit. I was having oil pressure issues.

I am going to set the timing with dsmlink back to 0 and adjust the base ignition timing via the 1st gen CAS as soon as I can get my hands on a timing light and see where its actually reading at right now.

BTW with DSMlink you can see all values for everything. I only had it defaulted to show those values. If you go into Data -> Values you can choose what you want to be displayed.

EGTs are around 850-900

I shift at 7500 in 1st and 2nd but I run 3rd out to 8600 at the track, why?
 
Larry,
Take it one problem at a time.
Problem #1 is the crazy tach signal. Maybe try a 1g CAS to fix it.
Problem #2 is the knock problem. The sensor could be FUBAR or maybe just WAY too tight. It could be real knock, check your plugs.
Once those two things are fixed then do some major tunning. I've got some DSMlink pump gas logs off a L2R 2g that are fairly clean and basicly tuned. If you want to see them e-mail me at [email protected]

Kevin
 
Z1500 beat me too it.
Get a timing light and check your timing. If no one has one, buy one. You will use for as long as you drive. This, I think, is one problem you have. FDix your timing and you should be much better.
Double check the knock sensor. It is possible it is too tight. It shouldn't be tight at all.
 
ok..

I already do have a 1g CAS and the people on the DSMlink list told me that my crazy RPM signal could be due to this alone??

The knock problem.. Im starting to wonder if its becuase Im running to much boost.. I checked earlier and sure enough I was going higher then before.. Damned cold weather and greddy controller :(.. I had low low set at 1.3 and it was the lowest I could get.. I was hitting 1.6 on the way home today and as soon as I went over 1.5 the CEL flashed becuase the knock count was going up.

Im going to throw a mbc on this piece and get it set to 15psi and then tune from there.. Hopefully I can tune for zero knock at 15psi and then work my way up from there.

I also need to check the base igintion timing I know as soon I get my hands on the timing light. where should it be set?? I know a guy posted on that tuning for 0 knock thread on DSMtalk that he set his all the way back to 1 and his knock went all the way down..

BTW z1500 Id love to see the logs you have.. email em to me if you can.. [email protected]
 
I got the knock to cut out.. I got the boost under control now finally.. I had the hoses on the wastegate hooked up backwards and damn what a difference it is now that I have it hooked up right.. Anyhow the car is running alot better now, I need to make a new log and see how it is
 
Lets see some logs.
The RPM could be crazy if the 1g CAS is bad.
Base timming should be 5^ (I think)

Kevin
 
yeah wes said he belives he set it at 5-8 but he cant tell for sure becuase of something not being able to be grounded to check the base ignition timing since the 2nd gen CAS was never meant to be adjustable.. and mine is with a 1st gen CAS.. Ill do more logs in the next couple days.. will post more info then
 
43psi with the line off I believe.

32psi would make your injectors run alot "smaller" than what they really are, and would probably mess up all your tuning. Especially with global correction and #@%#@%#@%#@% like that, as the injections might only be running at like 570 or something if they are 650's, etc.

Numbers are just made up, but 10psi is a lot of difference.
 
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