I'm new here and new to DSMs but am a long time gear head. I would like to share a project that is a long time coming...
This all started back in high school. A buddy of mine had come across a company that had a design for rotary valve heads for a small block ford with some impressive claims. I always thought it was pretty cool. Years go by but I never forgot about it and periodically spent long hours searching the end of the internet looking at rotary valve head designs and checking on the latest developments of that company. I then go to college for an engineering degree and managed to talk the school into doing a directed study for which I would design a rotary valve cylinder head for credit to satisfy some technical elective credits for my degree. I went out and bought 4hp horizontal shaft engine and designed a cylinder head for it. In another class I designed and built a engine test stand dyno for the engine. I worked in the student machine shop at the school and was able to get most of the machine work on the new head design done but was not able to get it finished before I graduated. After graduating I bought a used small Grizzly knee mill that was converted to CNC and a manual lathe. After much work I had a prototype that started and ran but left much to be desired. During this time I exchanged some emails and phone calls with the company that had the rotary valve head design. I was very interested in being a part of bringing the technology to market and eager to work with them. I told them I wanted to see a working prototype I could test out and they were not interested in that. They told me non-exclusive US only patent rights was going to be on the order of several million dollars. After a few more emails with them trying to get them to work with me I gave up on them. Personally I think the whole company is a scam but I was still intrigued by the idea of rotary valve. I then changed direction in occupation which landed me overseas for a year during which time I had no shop to work on the new prototype. Since then the patents I was interested in expired so I figured game on! My plan was to work on the small engine some more or go straight to doing a car engine. Two different co-workers I made friends with convinced me the 4G63 engine would be a great candidate for such a design. I took their advice and bought a used head off of ebay and spent the next year drawing up the stock head in CAD and the new rotary valve head design.
Fast forward a year and I got back to the US and started setting up a shop. I built a furnace and started learning how to cast aluminum. bought a full size knee mill I converted to CNC that was big enough to do the machine work for the new head design. After tying to balance a marriage and a long commute to my day job and long hours as an engineer I convinced my wife to take a year off from work to work full time on the project. It was really tough going and a really steep learning curve but I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. So now over a year later and having taken longer than estimated and costing a small fortune; my eighth head casting, so far seems to be usable and I just have a small amount of finish machining to do.
The latest progress is I have the engine mounted on a test stand/dyno that is a work in progress (I'm also building a water brake from scratch). I'm getting the engine wired up and plumbed at the moment. I have a few more parts to make and it will be go time.
More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/goldenfabllc/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1128121320563614
Best Posts in Forum: DSM Build Journals
Page 1 of 3
- Thread: 1G RWD build
- Thread: keltalon Switch from FWD to AWD
Well after a little fender bender in the fwd I recently purchased a very nice Awd 1997 gsx Eclipse and a ton of brand new parts for a future build came with it. Well this is the start of a new build and I am excited to see how far it goes. The 800whp fwd engine will be swapped in after I build up the drivetrain, transmission, transfer case and the rear end. I have been reading a lot the last 2 days but must say I am on the right track. Stay tuned.
- Thread: greengoblin's AWD Project
So, sometimes you have to go backwards to move forward. That was the cars cage. I had it built by a very good cage builder when I lived in Idaho but unfortunately it was done just plan wrong for my purpose. I had a lot of crazy stuff going on and failed to realize it at the time until it was to late to have the problem fixed. Truly it my fault for being better aware of my rule sets and allowing them to build it on blind trust. Lesson learned! It was an awesome experience with a lot learned, tons of worked completed and a few things to finish up! Now on with pics of what my brother in law Shawn, father in law Mike and I cooked up over a week long fabrication bonanza.
- Thread: greengoblin's AWD Project
Now for the future....
I have very, very big ambitions for the 2016 season. I am going to address the problems I discovered this year and then some.
Stock rad isnt up to the task. (obviously) Luckily it is only a 2 minute run and it only got into the 220's by the end of the run. That isnt good but not bad. I will get an aluminum rad(Suggestions?). I am thinking KOYO or the new x-line Mishimoto. Once i figure out which rad i will duct it all in to make sure the air goes where it should.
The power steering was overheating reallllly bad. It took 3 runs of boiling it over before it found a level and didnt coat the front drivers side of engine bay in fluid. I am going to put a cooler on it this winter with an end goal of doing an Electric over hydraulic pump from a clio or MR2 or something. Right now my money is just getting pumped into other parts of the car so ill try the cooler and see how it does.
Turbo Spool. I am thinking about doing the billet wheel upgrade on the fp3065 for starters(maybe not this year mind you) And, I need to degree the cams and I'm thinking closing up the Lobe separation a bit should help as well. End game is a 2.3L...reason being, if I go to 2.4L it pushes me into the GT-0 full open over 4.0L class. As I mentioned earlier boosted engines get multiplied by 1.7. The car was running 25psi and flowing 47lb's of air during the hill climb. I need to get rid of the stock intake and throttle body as well. Once i get this all sorted out I will turn up the boost!
I also only have a crushed gus modded 1g bov which i think is not working all that well so a TIAL QRJ is in order.
Weight. I want to get the weight down as much as I can. The obvious spots are the door glass, sunroof and hatch glass. The battery is still in the stock location and nothing special so there is some weight loss and redistribution to be had there. At 2840lbs with the cage I think im not doing too bad but i really want it at least 100-200 lbs lighter. Any thoughts on this???
DOWNFORCE! The car is 100% stock bodied right now minus an eclipse rear spoiler instead of the talon one.
Lots of ideas and things on the go for this one but I will get into this later... the sneak preview i will give is that an APR GT-1000 wing is involved.
EDIT!! I got approval from the one and only Andrew Brilliant to let the cat out of the bag...he is doing a new version of the AMB Aero wide body kit and is currently in the process of having a kit manufactured for me! I'm super pumped for this and look forward to working with some of the people that already have the previous version. It is going to be one heck of an undertaking to pull it off before May of 2016 but I'm going to do my best!!
Thanks for reading...I will update this slowly as this winter's work progresses. I dont suspect to do too much to the car for at least another month or so here. Get my finances sorted out. Would be nice if the canadian dollar and oil would come up a little bit as well in the mean time.Last edited: Nov 26, 2015
- Thread: 1999 Eclipse Evo Swap
Hey guys. I've had my Dsm since early 2012, but never really posted on this forum. Since then, I have slowly been progressing on the car overall. It originally started as a 99 N/T OZ Rally Special Edition and is now in the process of an Evo 8 motor swap.
Car is currently on Coilovers with Rays Gramlight wheels, Brembo brakes, aesthetic add ons and some miscellaneous parts here and there. I sadly lost the pictures to when i originally started the motor swap, but I will continuously update this build thread with info on this specific swap, since there seems to be almost nothing available for us 2g guys.Last edited: May 3, 2016
- Thread: greengoblin's AWD Project
Powdercoated the compressor cover, catch can and overflow bottle.
Kirkey seats arrived. Needed to get these before the car goes to the cage builder next month (getting an 8.50 certified 10pt).
Picked up some 15x7 team dynamic 1.2 wheels
Oh man, the final steps!
I started out prying this airlock off the top of the base paint can. Use a flathead to get it off, I tried prying it with my hands and that was pretty ineffective.
Mixing! There are lots of flakes in this paint, it looks good wet. It seems darker than the paint on my car. I've never seen my car washed though so that doesn't help.
I applied two coats of this. It is CRAZY how much better this sprays. I used a 1.4mm nozzle for this. It was done within a few minutes. I waited about 10 minutes between coats.
The nice part about the base and clear is that they can be applied relatively quickly. The clear needed a minimum of 15 minutes before applying it, which gave me plenty of time to clean my gun and get the clear gun set up.
The clear gets applied in a 4:1 ratio. 4 parts clearcoat and 1 part hardener. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I marked that mixing cup because it's wrong. I had proper ratios when I was mixing.
I applied two coats of clearcoat with a 1.4mm nozzle. Applying this was quite interesting. It was quite foggy looking in my booth and everything was sticking to everything.
After I let it sit for a few minutes I popped my head in again to see if it was still dense in there, which it was. I decided to get a little creative with my air outlet, assuming it was clogged.
This is how it's been sitting for the last 8 hours. I haven't yet seen it now that it should be dried.
Rust bullet - Use a 2.0mm nozzle for this, application was pretty easy.
Blackshell - Something like a 2.3mm nozzle may be better for this, it was difficult to apply with the 2.0mm nozzle.
Basecoat - Use a 1.4mm nozzle, application was a breeze.
Clearcoat - Use a 1.4mm nozzle, application was easy but everything gets very sticky. Make sure you do your ground spraying before it gets too bad.
- Thread: Cornfed 97 awd tsi
- Thread: greengoblin's AWD Project
Here is another pic from around 97-98
Shortly after that car's demise. I built my second second dsm. My brother has this one now in Houston.
Most everyone know what I'm working on now. It's being built for GTA and NASA time trials.The car was also meant for hill climbs but that is kinda far now being in Texas. I'm honestly just a guy in a garage that reads a lot, ask questions and listens, is not scared to try, fail and try again until it's right. I'm also pretty damn stubborn which can really help since I refuse to quit even what it take what 10 year or more to complete a build. Race exp. Let just say it was the early to late 90's and FF was very real on the streets of most large Texas towns.Last edited: Jun 27, 2016
- Thread: greengoblin's AWD Project
UPDATE: 8/22/2016 - Post ShootOut! (this is going to be long, so my bad)
Dont scroll to far down if you dont want to spoil the ending! ha
Well, here we go! I took off work on Thursday and Friday of last week. Wanted to give myself as much time as possible to get the car ready for the drive out and the competition.
Two of my buddies, Justin Gibala and Justin Stull came in Thursday with their AWD DSMs. We spent the entire day, sun up to sun down working on them all.
I got everything I could done on Thursday. I wired in my wideband and installed it. I cut a trunk floor out of a spare piece of plywood I had, mounted the battery box. Wired in the lights for my boost and oil pressure gauges. Gibala pulled the 190 pump and installed the 255. Stull installed the driver seat harness. I put my race hood on the car and installed hood pins since the shell didn’t have any hood latch hardware. We fixed my coolant leak, and rebled the brakes, fixing the brake fluid leak. I also wired in my CAS securely. Oh and I ran to the BMV to get my temp tags so the car could actually be driven legally on the road.
As for the turbo, the O2 housing I had for my external wastegate was warped pretty bad and wouldn’t seal to the hot side. I didn’t even try to mount it up as the flange was way off. Luckily, Gibala brought a bunch of his old 20g parts, so we threw together a turbo to run. I ended up with a internally gated, 20g with an 11-blade billet inducer and a 9-blade exhaust wheel in a 7cm housing mated to a stock O2 housing.
Gibala also brought his old set of AX wheels/tires for me to run. Wheels were Evo 8 BBSs with a very used set of 245/40 Dunlop Star Spec Z2s. While we were putting the tires on, I noticed the passenger front wheel had TONS of play in the assembly. Which was all coming from the steering rack. Probably ¼ inch of solid movement. L
I really wanted to take her for a drive. So we fired her up and I left for a quick run down the road. It was dark, I had one headlight, no turn signals and a REALLY bad alignment. I pulled out of my driveway, shifted into second, third, 4th. YES! Car was driving “okay”. Then my CEL came on and the coolant temp gauge was spiked! I turned around ASAP and got her home. I had driven maybe ¼ mile between leaving and returning.
Pulled back into the driveway, popped the hood. Nothing was leaking. The lower rad hose was ice cold and so was the radiator! Thermostat must have been stuck or bad. Left her to cool for the night.
Woke up Friday morning. Here’s how she sat.
Firsat order of business was to pull the thermostat, so I did. Pulled it out, left it out, put the lower hose and everything back on. I wanted to compete, so no thermostat would be run this weekend.
I still wanted to take her for a real drive as going all the way to Wakeman on her first real trip wasn’t a good idea. So we got her started and I set off for a little cruise. I think I drove for about 30-40 minutes. She never over heated, never lost oil pressure, brakes were working, car was driving!!! Im also pretty sure I have a welded diff.
I got into a little boost as well. Wanted to to see how she spooled, how she acted. So I did a little pull here and there, never going WOT. She spooled made about 5-6lbs and sounded great and LOUD! Got home and parked her so we could pack up.
At this point were running behind, but oh well. Finally got the cars ready and and left for the car wash! Yes, I wanted to wash my multicolored car. It just needed to happen.
Finished the wash and she wouldn’t start. Battery didn’t have the juice to fire her up. So we push started her and we all left.
Made it to Wakeman!!
Found a good parking spot and took a minute to let it sink in. Car made the trip, sure the alingment was bad, and she was tracking all over, but she is here.
Friday night we left for the strip, yes, had to push start her out of Wakeman. Haha
We pulled into the racers entrance and the car stalled and died. Great. Pulled her over and my buddies jumped out to push her again. I owe these guys. Finally got her into the paddock area of Summit Motorsports Park. I was done with diagnosing her, so I pulled the battery and we went up to watch time trials and what not.
Friday night, my buddy Stull had to go back to Erie, PA. So Gibala and I hitched a ride back to my house in Medina, OH. Game plan was to get my Tacoma, grab the trailer and come back early Saturday before the AutoCross event starts. I brought my battery home as well. When we got home, I put both batteries I had on chargers for the night.
We woke up Saturday, grabbed some extra parts/tools/etc, loaded up my truck, grabbed the trailer from my father in law and headed back to Norwalk. Upon arrival I installed my charged battery, she started…barely. I took my multimeter and started testing voltages. The battery was only getting 12.2v and the alt was putting out around 12.3. So yeah, my alt wasn’t up to snuff and the cheap Wal-Mart battery I had was tanking during cranking. Like it would drop to 3 volts. Oh well, didn’t have another alt to install, nor the time to do it. So I got push started again and drove my car over to the AX area. Gibala and I did a quick course walk and then attended the drivers meeting. They choose to run all the cars as a single run group, which I thought was dumb. They could have easily split the group up 20 and 20. Everyone was lining up and it was a cluster of cars everywhere. Oh well I had bigger issues. For the first 2 runs, I had the car push started. Then, during Gibala’s first run, his OFH came loose and he dumped oil all over the track. So we had a long clean up time. I walked back over to the paddock and grabbed my truck. I then installed my other battery, an Optima Red Top that came with the shell, which was from 2009. It was holding 12.4 volts. So I hooked that one up, parked my truck next to the car and jumped it every time I was going to run. Hey, w/e works right?
So the rest of the afternoon AX runs went on. I hooked my go pro up and recorded my last 3 runs. I also did some quick tuning. The car was running 10lbs after my first run and the AFR was like 9.9…on E85! Woah. I pulled a little fuel out and turned the boost up. J
I also pulled a ton of timing just to be safe. Got to glance at my boost gauge during a run and saw a solid 20psi! She was pulling great! All the way to 7k as well! Very happy!
During my second to last run, the car was over heating with revs. If I got on the throttle, the coolant CEL would pop on and the coolant needle would rise. Once off throttle, it would drop. I realised this mid run and said screw it, time to go all out.
So for my last run, I turned the car off, hooked it up to my truck and activated the fan on full blast. I kept link logging and watched as the coolant temps slowely got down into the 160s. I only had one run left and wanted my “hail marry run”. I was going to push it hard and if she blew, then so be it. Id rather she blow up trying than not at all. Pulled up the start, got the go ahead and took off.
My last run was once again faster than previous! Finished my run, saw my time and drove the car back to the pits.
2nd Place!!! I cannot believe it! Emotions set in when talking with my wife on the phone walking back to the car, trophy in hand. Surreal.
This car has stock struts with cheap lowering springs, old used race tires, zero alignment, was over heating, had a questionable charging system, had almost zero true tune time on it and still was able to wrestle her into 2nd place.
Im currently putting together a video of my AX runs. Ill be sure to get that up here ASAP.
- Thread: My 2gb awd talon build thread
So there is so much going on with the car. Got the down pipe finished and we will be finishing up the 3.5 oval exhaust system this week. Then on to the wiring. But in the mean time, I got a couple trinkets that made me smile. Billet hose brackets. Its the little things, the attention to detail.
It is so amazing to see this car so close to completion. Someone commented how long it has taken me to Finnish. To build a car to this caliber in your garage, without an unlimited budget is so very difficult, unimaginably difficult. That is why you see so many partout. Its like you get in the middle of the build and lose focus which leads to frustration then lose of interest in the project. I've been through all of that. I think it was the guys waiting for the partout that gave me the motivation to get this far. I'm just so stubborn. LoL. But any who, here we are years later, and all I can do at night after I give thanks to the Lord, is close my eyes and imagine my car on the dyno, or rolling up to a car show turning heads. But right before I nod off, I hear the whistle of my FP Super 99 lulling me to my dreams.
Rolled 600 or so miles on the new build, so figured it was time to do another oil change and see how healthy the motor is. I drained the oil into a clean pan, and it looked good. So, then I pulled the filter and sliced it open for an inspection. The filter looked great, metal free and super clean.
I also did a compression test, and was extremely pleased with the results. 175-180 psi across the board on a cold motor.
I regaped the plugs to .018 and put the car back together. It runs GREAT. With the car in good shape mechanically, it was time to scrub off all the bugs I slaughtered doing 3rd gear tuning pulls.
- Thread: 1999 Eclipse Evo Swap
Wiring was finally finished!
Everything on the car has power to it, so we moved onto making a custom manifold spacer (temporary) to clear the starter.
Now working on its final touches before its first startup!
Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
- Thread: 1G Talon "Project Deathstroke"
I DID IT!
I immediately came home from seeing my mom on Mothers Day and got to work.
For the 3 days I had I was out there at least 14 hours each day, and it was well worth it.
Ran into a few issues, like my fuel pump burnt out for some reason, so I had to go run and get one. But for the most part it was smooth sailing.
I'm absolutely stoked at how nice it came out. It still needs a few things done to complete the tuck, but I still think it looks incredible.
Here's a picture of the engine bay with everything in it:
Finally got to wash the car (what a satisfying wash it was, to remove 2+ years of dust)
Still need to address the few body panels that are messed up.
Here's a first start video! This was right after verifying oil pressure was good and nothing blew up! So this is it in it's rawest state.
Having some issues with the TPS, so i need to line that out and get it idling properly. But not bad for just enabling speed density and throwing in a guesstimate for fuel.
Last edited: May 31, 2016
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Over the weekend i managed to put some time aside to do my brakes and brembo swap! At the same time i installed Pauls LCA's since i split a boot getting the old one off so now was as good a time as any!
Took longer the i thought it would due to me getting all evo parts and it did not work out as well as it was mentioned but my data i read was years old and i am out of date on reading up on this setup so its my bad. I had the evo 8 booster and MC but both did not fit so i had to modify both, the booster was easy to fix tap a small flat underneath it and thats all, the MC i had to dink the inner strut area and turn the res around! this will be fixed by summer as i will replace it with a ee oem 3G unit like has been proven to work! But for now it all works and it stops! HARD!
The install was fine and arms went on a breeze and the test drive was amazing, so another step forward!
Coilovers are this weekend and its booked for tracking the following weekend so then i can actually drive it safely and test them out better
- Thread: 1G RWD build
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