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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
*****IMPORTANT***** Note that the wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture are as seen FROM the CONTROL HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. That is, you are looking at the wires going into the connector, OPPOSITE the side that is pictured. Like this: How to identify ECU pin numbers. *******************Consider this part two of The 1990 Engine Control Wiring Harness; this article covers the remaining electrical connections in the 1990 2.0L engine compartment as well as the handful of connectors that run to the interior on the driver side. For reference, the main diagram below is as viewed from the front of the vehicle; the...
So I decided to do this mod the other day and I followed the directions from vfaq: 2G Fog Lights with Parking LightsHowever, the instructions were a bit sketchy as far as pictures and clear instructions. I did get it to work, but didn't like the setup, so I went about altering the mod myself.Like the original states, get an in-line fuse holder and put male spade connectors on each end. Then pull the fog light fuse out, and put it in the holder. Then pull your tail light fuse (left one in the picture) and put the spade connector in with the fuse. Then link the in-line fuse back to the power side of the fog light fuse location.After that's done, you're finished. The fog lights turn on with your parking lights. They still...
Overview Vehicle: 91 Eagle Talon Tsi AWDSo you’re doing a battery relocation or just need to get some thick wire from engine bay to inside of car. Forget about trying to squeeze it through the pass side grommet (Engine harness pass through) or slicing into your steering rack boot. Make your own dedicated hole for 0g/2g wire to pass through firewallTools Required0g Wire (as much as YOU need) Wireless Drill and drill bit set up to 1-1/16” (large step bits work fantastic) Dremel rotary tool with sanding drum Home Depot Grommet Kit (8pk CPGI Asrt) Can of fast drying paint (to seal drilled hole area)Precautions Measure before drilling Carefully sand hole to remove sharp edges Allow proper ventilation for...
Ok so recently I got like 4 questions asked my direction on how to relocate the master fuse box panel from under the hood and bring it inside to the glove box. Well, first and foremost, I have no pictures, I did this trick almost 2years ago so im also writing out of memory.The other two very important things you do at this time (if you havent already done this) is one, you must relocate the battery to the trunk. There is several write ups on how to do this correctly, im gonna make it a douple point to repeat a few key items that are a must on a batt relocation. 1st, mount the battery with an actuall tie down box not ghetto style, 2nd, MUST HAVE 150amp fuse/breaker, 3rd, run a 4awg wire from the negative battery post the whole length...
It all started with a mod idea for N/A 1G DSMs that will allow addition of one extra gauge while keeping the instrument panel looking un-modified (1G gauge cluster setup). Finally was able to gather up all necessary materials to make it happen:Temporary paper gauge faces will be replaced with factory-style plastic ones after the design is finalized.The mod requires only basic tools: Flat screwdriver Two phillips screwdrivers, one regular, one precision Sharp knife and/or small saw blade (for trimming plastic) 1/16" and 3/16" drill bit Drill for said bits (can be hand cranked since it will only be used for drilling plastic) Soldering iron, flux, and solder Some spare wire For this let's start with a Turbo 1G (or an N/A cluster...
Heres my contribution to the community :)So, if your like me and have stupidly messed up your usb cable for some reason, you came to the right place! I was bummed when this happened, i ordered a new cable just incase this didn't work, but i tried it, and it DOES WORK!Tools needed: Soldering iron& solder Wire stripper Heat shrinkStep one. Chop off the old broken usb end.Step 2, strip the wires, remove steel wires and insolation you will see 4 wire colorsStep 3 From ecmlink, the order of the wires is Red , white, green, black I'm not sure if other usb cables that you will chop into will have the same colouring, but in my case, it did!Step 4 Take your old spare usb cable and chop the end off and do the same as you did...
So the Spidey write up was missing parts to get your signals to work properly. Most people who attempted the wiring came out with hyper blink. I have resolved this issue and also provided pictures. Lets get to it!Tools: Two 8-Ohm 20 what resistors Radio Shack PN: 271-0120 Solder Soldering iron Wire strippers/cutters Electrical tape 20' of Auto wire 10mm deep socket Regular screwdriver Phillips Screwdriver Volt Meter Awl/small pointy objectHopefully you have access to instructions on removing your taillights, but in case you don't, I've included a brief description of the tools and process. A 10mm deep socket will come in handy here. Remove the two panels for bulb access. Also take out the center section of the interior section of...
Continued from: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/452730-auto-dimming-mirror-conversion-part-1-a.htmlAuto-dimming mirror conversion for 2G DSMs: Part 2: Wiring the UnitTonight I finally started working on the wiring for my auto-dim rear view mirror. I've been itching to do this for the past couple days, but kept getting distracted by other things. But it is now figured out and is fully functional.So let's get started: I searched on a website known as ShopKey5 for the 300M auto-dim mirror wire schematic and came up with this diagram, which I took pics of and cropped them together.Don't be intimidated with the diagram though. You're only going to be using 2 wires; the Black w/LT green...
I had purchased a jay racing alternator relocation kit and had the same issue as several others had with theirs. after emailing several people and addressing this in another thread i figured I would put it here as well.follow the instructions for how to install it. ill show the extra steps i needed to take.here is the bracket that needs to be ground down. i did mine with a die grinder inside the car. I held a vaccume right next to the bracket to minimize metal shavings.now here is where i had to make the correction. they give you 1 or 2 spacers with the kit and neither of them would line up properly and I was out of the correct size pipe to make a new spacer so i used the poor mans method of adjusting the alignment...
I wanted a small and obscure switch to turn on my fans, and I found it right in front of me.Step 1: acquire cheap flashlight from harbor freight.step 2: take the rubber grommet off and pull out the switchstep 3: remove rear wiper plug and mark spot to drill. Be careful, it's a tight fit. Final hole size is 5/16"step 4: solder some wires to the switch and epoxy it instep 5: enjoy your small cheap switch with a very satisfying clickNote the quick disconnect connector. It'll make installing and removing the vents alot easier.On a 2g the ecu controls the fan. Connecting pin 20 to ground will activate both fans on hi and connecting to pin 21 will activate the cooling fan on low. pin 20 is the green/orange on the...
I've been trying to figure out my idle surge on my 90 for a while. It's running a 91+ TB/ISC.Started out replacing possible issues, has a good 90 ECU, new black top ISC and it still surged with no vacuum leaks. In fact all of my 90's surge with the 91+ TB on it.I found a post that it was possible the 90 wiring was different from the 91+ as far as the ISC went, but no evidence of it. Well I started digging through wiring diagrams and found some interesting information, two coils of the ISC are in fact swapped between the years. My one running 90 is currently missing it's injectors, so testing will occur once I get a new set to put in, but here's the diagrams.Anyone's opinion? First picture is a 90 Diagram, second is a 91 GVR4...
This guide will show you the process of installing an Innovate LC-1 wideband o2 sensor. I installed mine in the front o2 location, effectively replacing the factory narrowband sensor. Here are my thoughts on the front o2 location:Many people feel that the front o2 is too close to the engine because of heat issues. However, many others have ran the LC-1 in this location for years with no such problems, and these "heat issues" are becoming more of a myth than anything. Placing the wideband in the o2 housing decreases the potential for exhaust leaks prior to the sensor and you don't have to weld another bung into the exhaust.OK, but isn't the factory narrowband best for closed loop operation? Yes, but v3 can simulate a narrowband...
This article will describe the process of installing and configuring the Ingersoll electronic boost control solenoid with Ecmlink v3 integration. Considering this is my first tech article, I've decided to choose this topic not for it's difficulty, but for it's simplicity! I wanted to show the dsm community just how simple this process really is. That and - the more tech articles, the merrier...Tools Needed: Soldering iron (I prefer Weller) & solder Heat shrink tubing Wire strippers 10mm socket/wrench Zip ties and/or steel wireSetup:This is the Ingersoll boost control solenoid right out of the box (purchased from ecmtuning.com):Before you begin, thread the plastic nipples into the Ingersoll (you might want to use...
The purpose of this install guide is to install AEM's UEGO Wideband kit into a turbo 2G eclipse in place of the stock O2 sensor without using some kind of narrowband emulation like DSMlink. There are a number of ways to install the gauge on DSMtuners but there wasn't one that focused on installing it in the stock front O2 sensor standalone. I did much research on this before and the main benefit of this is: - You don't need to weld an O2 sensor bung into your exhaust - The front O2 sensor position is a good place to install the Wideband sensor - You get the advantages of having a quicker reacting and more accurate O2 sensor for you ECU - You don't need to add an O2 sensor to your car your merely replacing one. - You get a wideband...
None of the 1g fan wiring write-ups I read enabled both fans to run while retaining the AC compressor in the "OFF" position. I actually use my AC so I needed a quick and easy way to run both fans without the compressor running.With this easy 1-wire jumper mod both fans will run with the Ignition switch, and it will not engage the AC clutch. No running wires in the cab, no switches required.dsm-article1.mp4 - YouTube
For comparison with the 2Gb information in:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/These are off a 11/94 production date 2G Eclipse GSX. For being the early year (95-96) there are 2 different plugs styles.The first is the location and plug style of the CAS. Its location is between the fuel rail and the intake cam gear, just below them. The wiring color is (from left to right): 1. black 2. blue with a red stripe 3. red.The next is the ABS module located front driver side, next to the power steering reservoir. It has 2 plugs. The plug to the left has 9 wires coming off of it and they are (from left to right then down to next row from left to right): 1. blue with yellow stripe 2. black...
In many cases when working on the wiring of these dinosaur vehicles we know and love we will stumble across bad or failed wiring. Trust me, if you've owned a DSM for more than a few days you know that there are always bound to be issues - especially electrical. What does this mean? Well, it could mean that you've found the reason you're blowing fuses, switches aren't working, or found the source of your frustration and you're about to blow a fuse yourself and beat the bajebuhs out of your poor car."Damn cargo light won't turn on! ARRGH!"Now, what I've taken the time to do here is stressful, time consuming, and requires a bit of rocket science. Although it is such a tedious thing to do and tends to push me into those sweat...
This article is for the connector located on the radiator / condensor fan or for the harness side.For the unfortunate souls who find what a pain it is to disassemble, I am providing tips and cutaway pictures to see how the locks work, in case one can't afford messing up this connector. I used these connectors for a custom harness adpater to fit the 1G CAS into my 97 GSX engine harness.Although, I can't say for sure if all these style connectors are like this but, I pulled one off a 1996 Eclipse GS and another off a 1995 Talon TSI AWD.So here is the 4 pin connector. First remove the housing which keeps all the locks in place. I am talking about the pink plastic piece shown, take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry up on...
This write up will cover many of the different aspects of how to rewire/tuck your engine/chassis harness and relocate your fuse box. I'm in the middle of mine so this won't be complete till mine is done but I will share what I've got up till now. I plan to show the tools I'm using, how to depin the various connectors, etc etc.This post will focus on the tools and materials you will need.First and foremost, DO NOT start this job without having Factory Service Manuals for your model year. The Electrical FSM covers so much information and is the most valuable thing to have when rewiring your car. If you need one, check out eBay. I bought mine from their for super cheap, used but in great condition.The second thing I HIGHLY recommend...
This should be exactly the same as a 1g, if it is not please let me know the difference, as there is no REAL write up on how to do a battery relocation, I figured I'd help some guys out!There is my diagram I made.I don't mention Circuit breakers in this write up because I am not using them YET. You should use circuit breakers to protect the battery though, it's a VERY good idea.You must buy as much wire as your car/tuck/needs so I will not give you any steady numbers, but it's a lot of wiring and a lot of money. It is NOT, repeat NOT cheap to do this, so if you're doing it for the cool factor, exit this page now or just go ahead and hack it together and start your harness on fire.Overview:This is the proper way to...
I do not take credit for this video just making it easier to find for tuners.
Hopefully this will help out a lot of you who are attempting fuse box relocation, pointers and corrections are welcome.Also if youre relocating 1g fuse box it is the same concept but some things may vary.Here is how I and my brother (dirty dsm) relocated his fuse box The 2g harness has 38 wiresThings you will need-notebook to keep track of everything and as back up-10mm socket to remove stock cables from the fuse box-sharpie or other writing utensil to label the wires-wire cutters (razor blade will do) for cutting wires,wire loom.-small object such as a small pick for depinning connectors-masking tape to label the wires-some type of sleeving to cover the wiring (I prefer braided sleeving)-wire...
Updated to remove LM Programmer usage as it seems to be causing people a lot of trouble. Still retained one example using LM Programmer all the way at the bottom for reference.One question that pops up very often is how to hook up your Innovate LC-1 wideband controller. I figured I would put together a listing of the many different configurations that I have seen people ask about. These will be broken down by vehicle generation for logging purposes.1GMake sure when cutting the front o2 wire (white wire at pin 4 location) that you're NOT cutting the knock sensor wire. Make sure there's a BR (Black/Red) and YB (Yellow/Black) wire on either side of the white wire you cut.Do not put the blue wire to sensor ground as...
So you performed an ohm test from the supply to the load and it looks perfect... Problem is, it still has a problem. Here is a simple tool you can make to test a circuits ability to carry current and verify the circuit is performing as it should. The older these cars get, the more corroded and brittle the wiring becomesTools you will need: soldering iron solder a couple feet of 16 ga. wire 1157 light bulb 1157 socket (available at your local auto parts store)The socket is highly recommended, but not totally required. If you chose not to spend the $$ on the socket, then the metal body of the bulb is ground and the 2 solder pins on the bottom serve as low and high circuitsTwist test the wiring to the socket first, we...
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