There was a motto during the first ten years or so when the cars were new, "go fast with class". This was in response to idiot honda owners with stripped interiors and home depot plumbing parts under the hood. Sadly this now seems to apply to many dsmers. Let me tell you something, stop supporting this ebay chinese crap. If you cant afford it youve picked the wrong hobby. Buy from reputable vendors who make quality products and do not waste their time with lots of technical questions when you are not buying from them.
There was a time that you simply didnt see a janky dsm because the owner wouldnt allow it.
I cant tell you the number of times ive had some janky dsm owner ask me for help without doing any work or diagnosis on their own (not unlike this newbie section). I dole out experienced advice for free here because I choose to. Vendors who are trying to feed their families are not. To the newest inexperienced guys just starting out we expect newbie questions...for a little while. Those of you that have been around awhile you have no excuse. You dont know how good you have it now vs the early days when there was NO information because it had not been done yet. If you want to see these cars supported then support the vendors that are laying out blood sweat and tears to get it done. If you cant afford it then suck it up and go home until you can.
Page 1 of 21
- Thread: Cheap dsmers
- Thread: Cold Air Intake
Figured I'd better clear the air a little in here. We love DSMs and know that if it wasn't for this platform, we would not be where we are now. DSMs have been the backbone of this company.
If we have the manpower and time, we would continue with the DSM trans builds, but the problem is we just don't have the time anymore. Out of the 12 people we employ here we are torn 50/50 on this. Half of the people here think it's a bad move to stop and the other half don't want to deal with it anymore. We are still trying to discuss this internally as a company to figure out what we can do. Once we catch up on the projects this year, we may be open to working on them again. Not sure yet...
There is light at the end of the tunnel, though! If we do decide to eliminate the trans builds for good, we are going to offer all of our secrets to the public! Everything from trans tear-down, parts replacement, synchro blueprint, assembly, preloads, cleaning, etc. It will all be on our website with all of the details to build your own trans just like we did! The only catch is we would ask that you buy the parts you need to build the trans from us. We still want to offer the parts, but just don't have the time for the full builds.
I will let everyone know what our final decision is when we truly have a plan.
This 1996 GSX was beyond gone when the customer brought it to Strictly Performance Motorsports, from tons of rust, worn suspension, and a bad motor. This GSX was saved and a full build was under way with tons of new parts including Strictly fab Manifold and Strictly CTSV big brake kit. Some pictures of the progress. and more to come.. stay tuned.
- Thread: Strictly Performance *GSX BUILD*
First thing to address was the rust..
After the bay rust was repaired and resprayed hard to tell but most of both shock towers were cut out!
Then the rear sub-frame came out. but not without a fight.
Every suspension component was media blasted and painted, along with underbody being coated. Rubber bushings were swapped (burned out) for urethane.
Then the gas tank was removed, to expose the rusted brake lines!
New brake line were made and a nice layer of under coat to protect from future rust.
The bay looks a little more finished with a fresh Strictly built motor and head, rebuilt trans, running the Strictly fab manifold and down pipe along with a few other goodies!
The suspension was also modified with new parts all around, urethane bushings Strictly CTSV big brake kit and D2 coil overs with EVO rear brakes.
We will keep you guys updated this car should be on our dyno very soon Strictly and the owner of this junk yard bound GSX couldn't be happier
Remember if your looking do a restoration or build Strictly can make it happen.
Strictly Performance Motorsports is your one stop shop for anything automotive. Call, click, or email us today.
P: 269-350-9055Last edited: Jan 15, 2016
- Thread: Spark Plug FAQ
The Spark Plug FAQ: or "What spark plugs should I use in my DSM?"
Every few weeks, sometimes even every few days, there comes a thread where a new owner of a DSM asks what the best spark plugs are for his or her car. More rare, but still seen every once in a while is the question posed where the owner is having problems with the car stumbling, hesitating, losing power, and otherwise not running quite right. In some cases, it is due to not running the correct spark plug or plug type. In this FAQ, I'll try to depict a few different types of spark plug and the pro's and con's of each. There's a fairly definite answer to the question you may have: "What spark plug should I use in my DSM," but we'll get to that later.
First, a few pictures of some various spark plugs you may be currently using, have used in the past, or have considered using. Note: The following applies mostly to turbo DSM's and may not reflect usage in a non-turbo application.
#1. The NGK BPR6ES. This is what the majority of DSM'ers who don't have too many mods or are running fairly low boost will tend to use.
#2. This is the NGK BPR6EKN. This is what you'll most likely be offered if you walk into an auto parts store or dealership and ask for plugs for your turbo DSM, because this is the plug called for in the Owner's Manual and the shop manual. It was the standard factory plug for turbo DSMs. Notice the dual electrode. It's fairly pointless, since the spark will only jump to one of them, but these are an option for our cars, although not the best option. Unless part of your shop's income is generated by selling spark plugs, of course.
#3. This is a Bosch Super plug for the DSM 4g63t. It's a copper plug, fairly similar to the NGK, more or less. You may be offered this plug when you go to an auto parts store.
#4. This is a Bosch Platinum plug. This is another option you may be given when you go to your local auto parts store. It has been the experience of nearly ever DSM'er that you should avoid platinum plugs at all costs in turbocharged applications. The salesperson will most likely tell you that platinum plugs last a long time, or maybe they're on sale. It doesn't matter. They simply are not the best, nor worth the cost, for our cars.
A note about the pic: Do you notice anything missing that was visible in the previous pictures? That's right. The center electrode is amazingly small, nearly invisible. Below are two internal diagrams of the Bosch plugs (copper and platinum) from the exterior of their respective boxes.
#5. Here is a Bosch Platinum +4. It has four electrodes and a small platinum center electrode.
I don't have any pictures of any iridium plugs because they're special order where I work, and we didn't have any in stock. This isn't suprising because of their cost. For the price of a single iridium plug, you could have an entire set of standard copper plugs with money left over for a gapping tool and a frosty beverage.
One of the most frequently asked questions that crops up often here on DSMtuners is: "What kind of spark plug should I use in my (turbo) DSM?"
Use NGKs. They are the best for our cars. For some unknown reason, our cars just 'prefer' them.
An important feature of spark plugs that often goes unnoticed, or is often misunderstood, is what is known as the "heat range" of a spark plug. The spark plug must dissipate heat. Different heat ranges of spark plugs dissipate heat at different rates, which allows people to use different plugs for different applications. The plugs do not create heat, but instead remove it. The heat is transferred through the metal shell of the plug, to the head, where it is removed by the oil and water passages in the head. The way it does so is best shown by this diagram from NGK's website:
Different companies sometimes use different methods for determining the heat ranges of their plugs. NGK, for example, uses lower numbers for hotter plugs and higher numbers for colder plugs; i.e. BPR6ES plugs are hotter than BPR7ES plugs. Using too cold of a plug in your car will lead to fouling, but using too hot of a plug may lead to a hot-spot developing on the plug surface, which may result in pre-ignition/detonation. The ideal situation is to use the coldest plug possible without fouling.
Here's a comparison of three spark plugs made by NGK. At first glance, you may not notice a difference. Upon closer inspection, you may find that the shape and thickness of the white insulator around the center electrode thickens as the plug's heat range goes colder. In addition, the insulator is in contact with more of the outer shell where the threads of the plug are as the plug's range goes colder. On the left is a BPR5ES, in the middle is a BPR7ES, and on the right is a BPR9ES.
The more contact the insulator has with the outer shell, the more heat can be transferred out of the plug and into the head. Heat doesn't travel through air as well, so in a plug with less contact with the outer shell, the core of the plug stays hotter.
Another frequently asked question seen here (now that you know you need NGKs) is: "What heat range of NGK do I need for my (turbo) DSM?"
There are no set rules, but there are guidelines:
-For stock to near-stock cars, BPR6ES.
-For mildly modified to - heavily modified or high-boost, use BPR7ES.
-For heavily modified, high boost applications, use BPR8ES.
If plug fouling occurs, go one step hotter and monitor performance and results.
Stock car, T25/14b, 12-15 psi, upgraded intake/exhaust: 6ES
16g, 20 psi, water/meth injection : 7ES-8ES
GT35R, nitrous, the works: 8ES-9ES-10ES
Copper, Platinum, Iridium. (What's next, Adamantium?) What's the right one for you? As mentioned earlier, the vast majority of DSM'ers will swear by standard NGK copper plugs. Platinum is not as good a conductor as copper, but it's harder so it lasts longer. Iridium is also very hard, but it's also very rare, which makes it expensive. The consensus regarding iridium plugs is that while they work, they're not worth the price when standard $2/each copper plugs work more or less the same. Even though platinum plugs are closer in price to copper plugs, it's been my experience along with many other members, that running platinum plugs caused fouling, stumbling, hesitation, a loss of power, a decrease in gas mileage, and poor idle. Switching to standard NGK copper plugs solved the problems immediately.
Here's the answer to one of those common questions: "My car stumbles/hesitates/has no power/idles oddly/has lost gas mileage/does not perform well..."
If you are running platinum spark plugs and notice that your car isn't running right.... take them out and put in NGK BPR6ES spark plugs and see if your situation improves.
Another common question is in regards to the proper gap of a spark plug. This refers to the space between the center electrode and the side electrode. The average auto-parts store computer will usually suggest a gap for each spark plug that they have in their computers. However, in most cases, the best gap to use is the one specified by the manufacturer of your car. In the case of turbo DSM's, many people choose to gap their plugs to .028". DSM'ers have had good experiences with slightly larger gaps (.030-.032") as well as with smaller gaps (.026"). The computer where I work suggests a gap of .032" for the spark plugs for our cars.
Spark plugs do not come from the factory pre-gapped. You may open a spark plug up and find that it meets your gap needs, but this does not mean that the next identical spark plug will have the exact same gap. To be sure, manually gap each spark plug you install. There are several tools to help you measure a spark plug's gap. Here are three of the most common: a gapping disc ($.99), a blade measurer ($3) and a wire-gapper ($3). What you use is your preference. Many people say that the ramp-style gappers are not as accurate. They'll work in a pinch, but the wire and blade gapping tools are preferred.
Here's an answer to another commonly asked question: "What should I gap my spark plugs to?"
Gap your plugs to .028"
My good friend Anthony (DSMunknown) has brought to my attention that there has been some discussion in past years regarding the gap of spark plugs opening up over time, possibly due to long projected tip or high exhaust gas temperatures. If you race or dyno your car regularly, checking your spark plug gaps on a regular basis (once ever 5 dyno pulls or once every 3-5 1/4 mile runs, or so) and monitoring whether they are opening up or not. If they are, you'll need to replace or re-gap more often than drivers who daily-drive their cars. More info on this will be forthcoming as research is conducted and reported.
To sum up: In general the BEST spark plug for our cars is the NGK BPR6ES gapped to .028", varying heat range depending on modifications.
For more information:
NGK Spark Plug Information
Decoding NGK Spark Plug part numbers.
Reading spark plugs
An in-depth look at spark plugs.
A VERY in-depth look at plug, brought to you by our cousins, the Stealth/3kGT.
A conglomeration of threads discussing different experiences with spark plugs.Last edited: May 24, 2012
- Thread: ECMTuning: No more back orders!!
This has been a long time coming. But we have finally managed to dig ourselves out of that seemingly perpetual back order state we were in. If it weren't our non-EPROM conversion boards it was our GM MAF cables or our datalogging cables. It seemed like we just couldn't keep up.
Well, we're caught up and ready to go. Nothing should be listed as back ordered any more and nobody should have any orders left in a back ordered status. 1G packages are shipping again as are the GM MAF cables and we have plenty of non-EPROM conversion boards on hand. If you feel like you have a pending order with us that's still being held up, let us know ASAP and we'll get it resolved.
Thanks SOOO much for your patience! I didn't hear a single complaint the entire time. I'm so glad everyone understood that we were just as frustrated as you were and I apologize again for how long this took to resolve.
Many of the new people coming into the DSM arena come from other car enthusiast backgrounds (Honda, Toyota, and even domestic cars). The first thoughts are to apply the same techniques as they've done with other cars. The problem is, all cars are different and react differently to modifications. The first thing a newbie should do is to read up on how their car works and gain a better knowledge of the mechanics of automobiles in general.
Those who are new to turbocharged cars have an even steeper learning curve to adjust to. They have to learn how a turbo system works, as well as the intricacies of the Mitsubishi powertrain and turbo system. Here are some common mistakes and misconceptions by these people we call "newbies":
1. Big turbos - not a good first mod
Most newbies come in and immediately want to know what the biggest turbo is that will fit on their car. They think that it's the biggest single power adder they can install. That is false. You can not add a larger turbo to your system without adding several other parts first. If you do so without adding the appropriate modifications, the turbo will not give you any more power than you already have. In fact, your car will run even worse until you add all of the necessary supporting mods. On the flipside, if you add the proper supporting mods first, the car will have significantly more power without even touching the turbo.
2. Loud BOVs (the pssshhhhh sound between shifts)
The second most common question is, "how do I make my BOV louder?". Most of us DSMers will cringe when we hear this question. The fact is, a louder BOV on these cars will conflict with vehicle performance. In order to make a BOV loud, you have to vent to the atmosphere (as opposed to back into the intake, like our cars do from the factory), releasing the excess air instead of routing it back into your turbo system. The problem with this, is that your ECU has already accounted for this "excess air" and adjusts fuel curves accordingly. If it's not in the system anymore, the ECU is compensating incorrectly. This means that the car will not run the way it's supposed to. It may idle poorly, or it may not be noticable - but it will have a negative effect, even if you can't feel it (the logger will prove it). In any event, it is not the best thing to do if you are serious about making maximum performance. And if you are more interested in making your car sound "furious" and not making it "fast", expect a good deal of heckling, as this is a performance community.
3. Running 10's - not cheap, and not easy
An unachievable goal for 95% of the DSM community. I love seeing people come in here and think they're going to run 10's and 11's. Sure, it's possible, but it is only done by those who have a lot of money to spend. If you have your car parked in the driveway and have $10k in your wallet and know what you're doing, you may have a chance. The truth is, it will require just as much technical knowledge of your car as it does money. Spending the money is the easy part. It's not the parts that make your car run 10's. It's the testing, tuning adjustments, repairs, new trannies, and driving practice that will get you there. DSMs are very capable of running fast times, but like any other car, they require money and know-how to go fast.
4. Raising boost too much, too soon
It is well known that raising the boost levels is the quickest and easiest way to raise your horsepower. It's also a quick way to mess things up and hit "fuel cut" (when the ECU cuts fuel at WOT when your boost is too high). If you raise your boost levels with a boost controller, be sure you've first installed an aftermarket boost gauge. It is critical, as the stock gauge is not a true boost gauge. Also, if you have not made any changes to your fuel system (fuel pump or injectors), do not raise your boost any higher than 16psi. That is all the stock fuel system is able to handle.
4a. Maintenance - some newbies try raising boost levels and installing parts without doing the proper maintenance on their 15-25 year old DSM. Rubber hoses dry out, timing belts need religious replacement, oil, gear lube, coolant, and brake fluid have limited lifespans, and most parts end up needing replacement to work correctly. If you don't know when they were changed last, change them. If you don't take good care of your car, you deserve the problems that will arise from such neglect.
5. Intakes and Headers
Many people coming from the Honda world quickly start asking about which intakes and headers are available. This is because those mods have always been common in other import non-turbo applications. The intakes on turbocharged DSMs can be replaced, but aren't significant power-adders. Changing filters is very important though, and is recommended early on. The factory exhaust manifold is more than adequate though, with some porting work (except the 1G crack-prone manifolds, which should be replaced with a ported 2G manifold). Trust me, it's the rest of the exhaust that needs attention, not the manifold.
6. Tuning makes the most power - not modding
Tuning is something that, many of those entering the DSM community, may not be familiar with. Yet, it's the single most important aspect of building up a DSM to meet its potential. Most other cars have many chips or ECU replacements available for them. DSM owners aren't so lucky, as there aren't as many user-friendly options available to us. This means, you'll probably need to learn more than you anticipated about how your car's ECU works. Otherwise, you may destroy your motor. Tuning requires adjusting the fuel curves used by the ECU in order to maximize power output. Of course, you could just take your car to a DSM specialty shop and have them make the adjustments for you, but then again, being your own backyard mechanic is what owning a DSM is all about.
7. Lowering Springs
Rarely do these really help aid handling, mostly because the rates are too low for the amount of lowering. Also, lower cars need shorter shocks (but people don't shell out for Konis, which are the shortest OTS shocks), while high-rate springs need more rebound damping and not more compression damping (which is why Tokikos and AGXs don't work well). Finally, lower does not automatically mean better handling, because you might now be hitting the bumpstops and you also might now have lateral control arms that angle upwards.
8. Camber vs Toe
99% of tire-wear problems come from the toe-out that you get when you lower the car. The problem is not the extra negative camber. Yes, lots of negative camber hurts traction on a straight-ahead launch, but it helps in cornering. After lowering a car, you might need to remove some rear camber (or the understeer will be awful), but you don't need to take out any front camber unless it's a dedicated drag-racer or slammed to the ground (but see above).
We'll probably keep adding to this list....
I thought it was about time to put this MYTH to bed and get it overwith!
What was the myth you say!
Well many years ago when folks started using the Galant knuckles some reported the knuckles offset the wheels as much as 1"!!! Now thats alot of offset for just a knuckle but its not impossible and could happen had they have moulded them differently or to counter act the newer Galants and its suspension and weight of car.
I recentley did my brake swap and used my Galant knuckles and i did not notice any offset.
So to put this to rest i had both the oem 97+ knuckles and 2000+ Galant knuckles 3D scanned and placed on top of each other to see if there was any differences, and there was zero in terms of hole location or curved part of the arm.
In the pics you will see green/red/blue now this tells us the difference is casting or thickness of the casting.
Green means its exactly the same
Red means its bigger
Blue means its smaller
Dont think of the colors as a massive effect though as the difference bewteen both are less then 1mm and has a tolerance to measure down to 30 microns!
The only difference is the caliper mounting locations and thats the biggest effect.
The other reason for wanting to do this is I offer these knuckles to the group and community and ive had several people ask this question about they heard this and it puts them off because they have new wheels etc etc, and i could only reply with ive heard this aswell but from eye and measuing with a tape and digital calipers i did not see this offset anywhere. But getting it 3D scanned is 100% more accurate.
Last edited: Apr 30, 2016
- Thread: Aem WB and ECMlink?
Before you start jumping head first in doing a WB install and logging it in dsmlink you need to install dsmlink FIRST and get your idle/cruise fuel trims tuned properly. Things just don't "line up" and start working perfectly after dsmlinks installed, even with a 100% stock car things need adjusted. Use these demo videos and ask questions, then do the below so you can setup you wideband.
I suggest you install the WB sensor in the front o2 location and plug the bung thats in your downpipe, if you've got one. By installing it in the front o2 spot for simulation the WB sensor will react faster to changes being made to the AFR by the ECU, the further down the exhaust the slower the reaction and the more PITA its going to be to get it to run right. Its still possible to do because dsmlink has the tools to tune it properly, its just going to take a bit more to get everything to operate like it should.
Below is a diagram I made for you really fast if you still decide to use the front o2 sensor wire like you originally posted. Pin 4 (WHT) wire is where you'll tap into so you can log AND simulate your front o2 sensor using dsmlink. Whether you decide to simulate the front o2 or use a different ECU input the blue wire won't be used so just tape it off and zip tie it out of the way.
Heres your 1g ECU pinout --> 1g ECU pinout
After its installed your a few clicks in dsmlink away from having a logging and operation WB o2 sensor. Before you start the car you'll want to just turn the key to the "ON" position and connect your laptop to dsmlink, then follow the steps below...
Setting Up o2 Simulation
- Go to your "live settings" menu
- Open your NBo2 Sim tab
- Enable your o2 simulation but checking the box
- Set your WB switch point to 2.34 (this might need some tweaking but should get you close)
- Open your ECU Inputs tab
- Under the Pin Assignments for Datalogging (PC-side) menu click "Factory None" across from front o2 which will bring up a drop down menu.
- Select your WB, theres a few AEM WB gauges to choose from so unless you get lucky you'll probably have to go back and change this.
- Click the Save Pin Assignments button below.
- Click the Captured Values button and add the WB to captured values.
- Under the Pin Assignments for ECMLink Functions (ECU-side) menu click the "Undefined" drop down menu next to Wideband.
- Select front o2.
Easy enough? After you do the above start the car and let it warm up to operating temp. while its capturing a datalog. Then attach the log to a post in this thread and we'll see what changes your going to have to make.
- Thread: New 1G products coming soon
I've had a chance to prototype a few new 1G products lately, and I wanted to chime in to share and also to gather some opinions. I still need to test this stuff on a few cars before it's available. But once available, I will have ads in the Freelancer section.
I'm working on a 1G rear upper control arm. These will offer a greater adjustment range and also save around 1.5 lbs weight on the car. These are similar to the Afco DIY kits that some people have been using. The differences are that my arms will have a stronger tube, a much better heim joint, and properly fitting standoffs that won't require modification. The inboard end will feature a chromoly, teflon-lined heim. The outboard end will be a very nice Moog tie rod end (booted and zirked). The tube itself is a large OD extruded aluminum tube. Very strong due to it's hex shape, and reasonably lightweight as well. Pricing will probably be around $200 shipped for the set.
I'll also be offering a 1G active toe eliminator kit. These will feature a chromoly, teflon-lined heim. I'll also be including 4 small round caps to use to weld over the factory bolt holes. I'm hoping to be around $150 shipped for the kit, so reasonably competitive.
And last but not least, I'll be jigging up a 1G rear subframe in the coming weeks. I'll be designing and building a prototype tubular rear subframe very soon. And there will be options for a 1G rearend or 3000GT rearend. I'm very much looking forward to this project. I hope some of you guys still want something like this.
Anyway, that's all I have for now. Feel free to post any suggestions or opinions you may have. I welcome any constructive criticism. And if there's another 1G rearend product you want, let me know.
Believe it or not, January 2017 will mark our 15th year in business! I could never have imagined....
With that in mind, we've decided to finally try something we've been asked about every year since then...we're going to run a black Friday special!
Starting later today and running through Saturday, new ECMLink packages will be reduced by $50. That includes both the DSM and EVO1-3 packages.
Hopefully this helps makes a few holidays a little brighter!
I'm new here and new to DSMs but am a long time gear head. I would like to share a project that is a long time coming...
This all started back in high school. A buddy of mine had come across a company that had a design for rotary valve heads for a small block ford with some impressive claims. I always thought it was pretty cool. Years go by but I never forgot about it and periodically spent long hours searching the end of the internet looking at rotary valve head designs and checking on the latest developments of that company. I then go to college for an engineering degree and managed to talk the school into doing a directed study for which I would design a rotary valve cylinder head for credit to satisfy some technical elective credits for my degree. I went out and bought 4hp horizontal shaft engine and designed a cylinder head for it. In another class I designed and built a engine test stand dyno for the engine. I worked in the student machine shop at the school and was able to get most of the machine work on the new head design done but was not able to get it finished before I graduated. After graduating I bought a used small Grizzly knee mill that was converted to CNC and a manual lathe. After much work I had a prototype that started and ran but left much to be desired. During this time I exchanged some emails and phone calls with the company that had the rotary valve head design. I was very interested in being a part of bringing the technology to market and eager to work with them. I told them I wanted to see a working prototype I could test out and they were not interested in that. They told me non-exclusive US only patent rights was going to be on the order of several million dollars. After a few more emails with them trying to get them to work with me I gave up on them. Personally I think the whole company is a scam but I was still intrigued by the idea of rotary valve. I then changed direction in occupation which landed me overseas for a year during which time I had no shop to work on the new prototype. Since then the patents I was interested in expired so I figured game on! My plan was to work on the small engine some more or go straight to doing a car engine. Two different co-workers I made friends with convinced me the 4G63 engine would be a great candidate for such a design. I took their advice and bought a used head off of ebay and spent the next year drawing up the stock head in CAD and the new rotary valve head design.
Fast forward a year and I got back to the US and started setting up a shop. I built a furnace and started learning how to cast aluminum. bought a full size knee mill I converted to CNC that was big enough to do the machine work for the new head design. After tying to balance a marriage and a long commute to my day job and long hours as an engineer I convinced my wife to take a year off from work to work full time on the project. It was really tough going and a really steep learning curve but I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. So now over a year later and having taken longer than estimated and costing a small fortune; my eighth head casting, so far seems to be usable and I just have a small amount of finish machining to do.
The latest progress is I have the engine mounted on a test stand/dyno that is a work in progress (I'm also building a water brake from scratch). I'm getting the engine wired up and plumbed at the moment. I have a few more parts to make and it will be go time.
More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/goldenfabllc/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1128121320563614
- Thread: Thank you DSMers!
We just wanted to take a second to thank all the DSMers who have trusted in us, choosing our valve spring kits and other products over the competition, and keeping us in mind when building your DSM. We know you have other options out there. It means a great deal to us and we sincerely appreciate it!
Unlike various shops who cater to several platforms, we focus primarily on the 4G63. We develop parts for the platform, we race those parts, and we are determined to keep pushing the limits and help make other DSMers faster and more reliable. Few other shops are committed to doing this in the DSM world. Many have moved on to other platforms. We're still here.
If you are building your 4G63, give us a call at (734) 787-6459 and let us help. Find all of our products here:
Again, thanks for all your continued support. We look forward to supporting you in your DSM speed journey!
Hi everyone! Im happy to announce that Archer Fabrications LLC Has just officially released our New T3 standard placement Turbo manifolds for the 2G DSMs! Keep an eye out for other products to come!
Archer Fabrications T3 standard placement turbo manifold for 2g DSM $900 plus shipping
- Based around a GT35R footprint sized turbo (& 6266,6466,6766)
- 304L stainless steel Schedule 40 runners
- 1/2" CNC cut carbon steel head flange and Open T3 turbo flange
-Precision TIG Welded with Miller Dynasty210DX
-Fully Back purged
-Flanges welded with large aluminum heat sinks to prevent warpage
-Flange mating surfaces are also decked flat to ensure the perfect seal to the head and turbo
-Runner entries and collectors are fusion welded inside for the most strength possible
-Default waste gate flange for Tial 44mm MVR (available with or without waste gate provision)
-Weight: Approx 16.9lbs
-3 year warranty against manufacturing defects to original purchaser
-MADE IN ARIZONA, USA
Cerakote high temp ceramic coating
Black, silver, bronze +$175
Porting and blending of runner entries and collector +$120
Please note, each manifold is hand made, one of a kind, and built to order. Shipping Lead time is typically 3-5 weeks depending on backlog, there could also be additional wait times for high temp coating.
Email firstname.lastname@example.org for questions
Orders at www.archerfabrications.com
Thanks DSM Tuners!
Last edited: May 30, 2017
I just had to post these pictures of the polishing job I did on the 20g, I think I did pretty dern good! "I feel pretty, oh so pretty..."
Then I got real carried away and pulled my valve cover shaved and polished that too... If you look real close you can still see the ghosting letters coming through at a slightly differently color. I think it is because where the metal was thicker it changed the chemical makeup of the aluminum when heat was added over a long period of time.
If you'd like to know what I did to polish everything... I used a 100 grit in a palm sander, (20 min) 4 pads, then repeated with 160 grit (20 min) 4 pads, Change your pads frequently, the aluminum is absorbed quickly into the paper. I then used a corded drill to power buff fine scratches with a pad that resembles a rough scotchbrite pad (45 min), Creates millions of tiny surface scratches that eventually blend the contour of the housing. I'd suggest using an abrasive polishing wax during this process every 5 min. Then get yourself a Buffing wheel (not the cushion, 2 seem stitching style) get the one that spirals from the center all the way out to .5 inch of the edge. Home Depot $6 dollars (where you get the wax too). Put on a Good quality grinder, use a finer wax for polishing metals and then... buff away! No elaborate long process necessary. When I got to the Buffing grinder wheel, I had an hour and a half invested; it took me 15 min. to complete the job.
With the Valve cover, Repeat the process after you grind and file the letters flush. 3 hours! But well worth it... Be prepared with Drinks within arms reach! Don't Be Scurd, Just do it! Do it!
- Thread: Look what is coming to Amazon...
Devin and the Red Demon captured a new personal best ET & MPH this past weekend at Orlando Speed World Dragway with an impressive 7.78 @ 189MPH, with a 1.2 60ft!!! This makes the Red Demon the 2nd Quickest and Fastest 4 Cylinder AWD H-pattern in history!
5.14 @ 151 mph in the 1/8
7.78 @ 189 MPH in the 1/4
- Thread: Tuning With ECMLink v3
Recently, a member on the ECMLink forums requested some help with tuning and I decided to lend him a hand. Before long, I found myself writing a full blown guide that I thought would be a valuable and essential asset to the dsmtuners community. This article describes the methods I, and many others use, to tune our dsms and it is my intention to consolidate all of that priceless information into one resource. You'll notice that I'm simply relaying information. This stuff is already out there, yet people still find themselves lost when it comes to tuning. Hence, the need for a guide.
Before I get started, I just want to say that I am not, nor claim to be, an expert of ECMLink. In fact, quite the opposite is true. With that said, this guide is not complete and I plan to make many updates (especially to the timing and fuel sections). If anyone has anything to add, whether it is questions, comments, or opinions, please feel free to do so.
Without further adieu, I present to you: Tuning With ECMLink v3!
Latest version of ECMLink v3
A wideband o2 sensor (logging through ECMLink)
(and the obvious)
ECMTuning USB cable
Socketed EPROM ECU with ECMLink chip (flashed to latest version)
ECMLink 101 (also read all links within that page)
(Initial Setup/Injector Dial-in)
Initial Setup Video
Injector Data Compilation
List of Values to Log
Captured and Displayed Values Video
First off, If you don't have a wideband yet, get one. Without it, tuning is effectively useless. I very much prefer the Innovate LC-1.
Secondly, you must ensure that all mechanical systems are functioning properly. This includes anything from verifying that there are no boost or exhaust leaks, correct engine timing, good compression numbers, adequate fuel, spark, etc...everything must be working properly. A DSM Wiseman (thanks Calan!) has compiled a wonderful checklist that helps with this process: PLEASE READ - Before you ask for ECMlink/DSMlink log advice...
Thirdly, tuning is all about making sure you have properly configured sensors, allowing the ECU to properly interpret their signal. This is especially true for the MAF. Once you dial-in your MAF, tuning is as simple as setting your target air-fuel mixture and increasing/decreasing timing at WOT for the most horsepower, with little-to-no "knock."
The factory 1g timing map is notorious for being too agreessive. Therefore, it is recommended to start with a factory 2g or EVO timing map and make the necessary adjustments to it. These can be found here: V3 Configurations Options
Also, it's a good idea to start with a fresh ECMLink configuration. Stock data config files can be found at the bottom of the above link.
At this point, I should mention that you should already have your injectors dialed in. If not, go back review the Initial Setup/Injector Dial-in under the Required Reading/Viewing section above
Before going any further, go out and do a baseline third gear pull (at normal operating temp) and analyze it with ECMLink. If you experience excess knock retard (over 3 degrees), stop the pull immediately and consider pulling timing (see Timing section below).
NOTE: it is recommended to start with a low boost setting, such as wastegate pressure to get comfortable with the tuning process. Just remember, when you raise boost you'll have to make additional adjustments.
For the most part, the factory fuel map is adequate for idle and cruise, and these areas can be left alone. For Wide Open Throttle (WOT), you can set the target AFR in the OpenLoopMaxOct Direct Access (DA) table to whatever you want. On pump gas, a very common and safe AFR is 11.0:1. For E85, around 12:1 - 12.3:1.
Use the "track datalog" feature to determine which cells to adjust at WOT. Also, it's useful to "interpolate" values to smooth things out so that you dont have such drastic changes between cells (select a row/column of cells, right click, select "interpolate selection (linear)").
Here's an example:
Don't be afraid to make (reasonable) WOT adjustments to this table. A lot of new people think that AFR has a direct effect on power, when in fact, timing has more of an impact. Here is a video demonstrating this concept:
Haltech: Ignition Timing vs Air Fuel Ratio
That said, AFR can be used to control minimal amounts of knock, which can affect power slightly (because the ECU will pull timing). Some tuners prefer running a lean to rich map, meaning they start out lean on the lower end of their powerband and enrichen up top. An example of this (on 93 pump) would be starting at around 11.5 and decreasing linearly to about 10.8 or so near redline. If you find yourself constantly fighting low amounts of knock at higher rpm ranges, you might want to give this a try.
Next, we need to dial-in the airflow (if not running a MAF, see Speed Density section below). Here is an excellent guide that shows you how to manually do things the oldschool way:
MAFT Calibration by Logged WBO2
The more semi-automatic, newschool way is to:
Idle: 7. ECU - Initial setup (using combft and airflowperrev)
Cruising/Idle: 8. ECU - Fuel trim (using maftcompadjust tool)
WOT: Instead of going through all the calculating as outlined in the above guide, you use wbfactor and manually adjust the mafcomp sliders. wbfactor is ECMLink's estimated adjustment value that is needed to make afratioest and your logged wideband match, which is the end-goal. In other words, you want wbfactor as close to 0% as possible, throughout the pull.
Basically, if wbfactor estimates a 3% increase, raise the mafcomp slider at the corresponding mafraw frequency by roughly 3%...
Here's an example (my apologies, I know it's hard to see):
You can (hopefully) see that around the 500-600hz area (mafraw), wbfactor suggests a 5% increase.Therefore, I would go to the corresponding mafcomp sliders and raise them up accordingly and try another pull. Additionally, wbfactor is slightly raised throughout the rest of the frequency range, so I might consider raising those up a tick.
You can also see that I'm getting 0.4 degrees of knock retard in a couple spots. I'm not too concerned, as it might disappear if I raise the sliders in the rest of the frequency range, lowering the AFR slightly. Remember, "adding" air adds more fuel. But we're not really adding air, the ECU just thinks we are. If the knock were greater and/or consistant throughout other pulls, I might consider pulling a degree in those areas (via the DA table TimingMaxOct, see Timing section below).
Lastly, I should state that you'll want to ignore the wild swings of wbfactor during significant throttle changes.
Speed density is a little different, but the concept is still the same. Instead of the mafcomp sliders we have the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) table. The VE table is basically an RPM vs Absolute Pressure (PSIA) graph with values of VE. Fear not, because the above procedure is still useful and v3 allows us to use our dialed-in MAF to apply it's configuration to the VE table. This is done through the sdveadjust(sdratio) tool. If you are unable to utilize a MAF while logging sdratio, you can use sdveadjust(combft), but this will only adjust for closed loop operation, open loop must be manually adjusted:
Remember to smooth things out with the linear interpolation function, so you don't have drastic differences between cells. Because the VE table uses absolute pressure (psia), it helps to change the map sensor units to psia (edit->app preferences->units->air pressure). This makes it easier to determine which row you are operating in, especially when two rows are being referenced simultaneously.
After the airflow is dialed in, you can follow this video for the basics of tuning the ignition timing: Basic Tuning Example Video
and apply these concepts to the entire powerband at WOT. In general, if you see 2 degrees of knock retard, for example, decrease timing by 2 degrees in the corresponding cell. Again, it is recommended to start with a factory 2g or EVO timing map and make the necessary adjustments to it. These can be found here: V3 Configurations Options.
To tune for more power, instead of tuning out knock (as shown in the video), here's a decent guide you can follow: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/91676-how-street-tune-using-dsmlink.html
Be careful when running ethanol or race fuel as knock is not a safe way to determine if you've advanced timing too far. Generally, with E85, a good spot to be is at 12:1-12.3:1 AFR with around 20* advance, but this is completely dependant on your rpm and load. The rule is - increase timing with rpm and decrease it with load. Tuning on a dyno is optimal, as you can determine how much power the car is generating. At a certain point, power will stop increasing as timing is being advanced and this is an indication to stop. As jeffgst once put it, in terms of knock - pump gas will tell you when to stop. Ethanol or race fuel won't. Therefore, in the case of E85 or race fuels, it is strongly recommended to tune on a dyno.
From the guide mentioned above, we're interested in this segment:
When all's said and done, tuning is really not that difficult and the hardest part is making sure all the mechanical issues are addressed and things are configured properly. Whether running MAF or speed density, ECMlink provides very useful tools to give you an estimation of where things need to be. This is especially true for closed loop operation. For the most part, 'Link will take care of idle/cruise, but you'll have to adjust WOT. Ultimately, you want wideband factor close to 0% throughout WOT pulls at the desired AFR. With a positive wbfactor estimation, an increase in airflow is needed (using mafcomp sliders or VE table cells). With a negative estimation, a decrease is needed. Also, timing can be adjusted to control knock or to create more power, and it is strongly recommended to use a dyno when running ethanol or race fuels.
So there you have it, I hope this helps you and HAPPY TUNING!
I would like to thank Calan and snowboarder714 for their vast knowledge that has helped pave the way for my ever-evolving understanding of 'Link. You guys are true assets to the community!
and also, Dave Mertz and Tom Dorris for their infinitely amazing product!
Thank you all so much!Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014
- Thread: Show me your clean engine bays
- Thread: Who wants to help save a DSM?
- Thread: 1G RWD build
- Thread: The Road to UTCC 2015
Summit Point - June 6/7 2015, NASA Time Trials
With all the above changes I headed to Summit Point Raceway to go for a win and a record in NASA Time Trials TT2, bringing along my great friend WillRaceForBeer for tuning and mechanical support. The primary goal was to learn how to drive on Hoosier A6 tires, test all the changes, and if all goes well kick some ass!
Oh, forgot to mention I added some racing tear offs to my helmet visors because I was tired of buying new lenses (at $50+ a pop!) when they were scratched by not so careful people. Pretty cool things, don't really impact vision at all, and easy to install. Just sharing in case any other track goers can use the info:
Last year my best at Summit Point had been a 1:20.3. Wasn't as fast as I felt I could go, but with the NT01 tires I thought the car maybe had another 1.5 seconds at most in it. The class record was a 1:17.9 set by a very fast C6 Z06 Corvette on Hoosier A6 tires. That had been my target and I really felt I could hit that time with the right tires. I was excited to give it a go with all the enhancements to the car but... just before the event I learned a new Z06, one I'd never heard of and that had not been racing with us at all prior, reset the record to a 1:17.6 in March! Ugh, THAT was a time I wasn't so sure about. Here's the Vette, 442 whp and 3447 lbs (full interior I think), traps a 155mph at the end of the front straight vs my 142mph:
Arrived nice and early, around 6am. New tire rack I had made worked out very well, though it just BARELY fits all four new wheels/tires (they are 53" wide, vs the 48.5" with the nt01/enkei).
We ran the first session on the Enkei/NT01 combo to get shake down the car and bed in the new brake rotors and pads. Everything went terrifically and I think we were running in the 1:20s already without really trying, which got me very excited at the prospects for the weekend. I was loving the brakes and how the car handled so much I wanted to stay out the entire session but came in after five laps so as not to let the rotors/pads finish bedding.
Since everything went well I decided to not bother setting a time with the NT01 and go straight to the Hoosiers. The front went on perfectly with no spacers. VERY happy there.
The rear was not so simple! Remember I mentioned the curvature of the nt01 tires and how the rear uprights were clearanced around that curve? The new tires with the 18x12 rims actually bow OUTWARD ever so much, so not only is there no inward curve but it's overall wider than the widest spot of the NT01 setup. When we tried to fit the tires with no spacers in the rear, we immediately hit something, and that ended up being the lower point left in the upright. Ugh. My friend was not so enthused and wanted to give up on the set, but I looked at it and thought we could clearance things with a bit of grinding. A nearby racer had one so we plugged in and went to town. Even after grinding down the lower point of the curve we still needed one of my old 7mm spacers to get enough clearance. We ill have to re-visit this later perhaps, but it got the wheels and tires on.
I think they looked quite good being on the car for the first time. What do you think?
Car looks clean thanks to Meguiar's car care products. They are again sponsoring the car in 2015. Thanks Meguiar's!! Try their unfreakingbelievable Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere product. It really does work without scratching paint, though only use it on a lightly dirtied car.
Very deep and concave:
WillRaceForBeer exhausted from the grinding. As he puts it "It wouldn't be a track day without working on your f'ing car!":
With all the grinding we missed the first time session. Went out for the second timed session. My god. BRAKES: GOOD. TIRES: GOOD. POWER: GOOOOOOD. Everything felt SO good! So I started testing out the amazing new grip I had. I drove absolutely TERRIBLY though. I was so rusty, braking way too early, turning in at the wrong spots, almost dog-tailing myself off the track after a bit of drifting... Yet, n the second session we ran a 1:19.578, .8 seconds faster than last year with downright awful driving. This is looking good!
So we came in. WillRaceForBeer smartly checks the rear. No issues on the driver's rear. However not so good on the passenger rear! Something carved a nice 1mm trough in the sidewall. What could it have been?
This picture is after grinding on the driver's rear, but you can see how the Hoosier bows outward and and can infer where we grinded on the upright it:
The driver's side is clear. Well, here's a picture of the passenger rear. Can you guess what was cutting the sidewall?
You can see where the grinding happened here (didn't want to spoil it from earlier and it's the only pic I had of it). Yes, the lower perch of the suspension was cutting, and even the spring was rubbing on compression. How we missed this I'm not sure, but I'm guessing we didn't closely check the passenger side when the driver's side had no clearance issues. I also don't think the perch really hits unless the car is lowered to the ground and we only checked things while up on the jack. What happened here is the perch on the rear passenger sits much lower due to the corner balancing of the car. It just happens to be where it sits with my spring combo and weight balance. Sucks! Well, we didn't have a real fix for this via more grinding. I had an idea though, I asked the fellows that had the grinder if they had any spacers and sure enough, they had some 2mm universal spacers! I fit them under the 7mm spacers and voila, fitting wheels!
The last session unfortunately got cancelled as someone in the prior session had gone off so hard into a jersey barrier that they cracked it beyond repair in the short time before my session, so no more runs that day. I got 3rd place in my class sadly when I knew we had lots more time out there. So I had to get pumped for Sunday.
On Sunday, I was on my own as WillRaceForBeer had fiance' duties to attend to. I got there nice and early and mentally prepped. I went out in the first timed session... and ran a 1:17.836. Holy sh**balls. I broke last year's record and improved 1.5 seconds from yesterday. I was finally starting to use these tires (and if I haven't said it enough Hoosier A6 tires are GODLY) as well as the astounding new brakes (Thanks Detective Coating and Girodisc!!). However, I knew there was more in the car. I was excited... until I learned that the black Z06 had beaten his own record, resetting it to 1:17.374. Oof, I wasn't sure I had .5 seconds in me, and was not feeling great about my prospects.
I went out in timed session 2 but only ran a 1:17.9. A car had broken down on the first hot lap and we had to actually sit on track for a long while before that cleared. Then I just hit traffic and never got a good clean hot lap.
At this point I was feeling pretty nervous. I really wasn't sure where I could gain .5 seconds as I felt I was driving pretty fast. I had debated calling it because I had made my original goal of beating the 1:17.9 record from last year, and that I might have to drive at 10/10ths to take .5 seconds off which puts you in dangerous territory (other track drivers will understand). However something was eating at me telling me to at least give it a shot, as the practice alone won't hurt. Also, while sitting in the Durango for a bit to cool off the song "Galvanize" came on. The lyric "Put apprehension on the back burner" really woke me up and got me pumped. So I said "F it, let's go for it." I went back out in Timed session 3.
My first few laps were screwed up thanks to a jackass in a GT3 BMW M3. He doesn't time trial but I think he was in our session to test things. The clown, who already had been running a slower time than me, comes up on grid and pulls in FRONT of me. ? I was pissed already and sure enough, his dumb ass held me up in the first couple laps. I was so annoyed with the clown I came in hot into turn 1 (he refused to let me by nicely and get off line, despite me riding his ass down the straight) and just passed him like I was doing wheel to wheel. After I calmed down on the remainder of that lap I knew I had maybe one hot lap before I caught up and lapped the tail end of the Time Trial group. Well, I crossed the line and my timer said 1:17.288. Da heck?! Wow. I didn't even get a good run onto the straight at the start and yet I really did cut the .5 sec off my time. I was shocked, excited, nervous, thrilled... couldn't believe it. I know though that gps-based timing sometimes can be off by a tenth or even more so I reserved celebration until the official timing came in.
I pulled in and waited patiently under my tent. The vette owner came by after a while and said "Congratulations!" which had me really confused. He then followed up with "I can't believe it was only a few thousandths, better luck next time!" What? Yeah. Official timing had me at a 1:17.377 vs his 1:17.374. AAAAAAAAAAAARGH. He was nice enough and wished me luck in the fourth and final session, saying he was done and that if I ended up winning then so be it. Knowing I had a bad run onto the front straight to start the session (data later showed I trapped at 136mph, but could have trapped at 142mph plus) I KNEW I had him. I KNEW it. I was really nervous now but really looking forward to the final session, hoping temps didn't go up much and the A6 tires weren't going to fall off in traction like everyone warned me they would.
First hot lap of the fourth and final session, half way through, I shift to 4th gear and the engine just revs. I lost 2nd and 4th (and reverse I later found out). How? One of the shifter cable clips on the transmission decided:
Yeah. I have never ever heard of those coming out and it cost me the record and 1st. AAAAAARGH. So angry still just thinking about it. Believe me that little bastard is zip tied now, and I recommend everyone else do the same!
Here's a video of the 1:17.377. You can see I carry a lot more speed at the end of the lap onto the front straight than I do at the start of the lap, which means if I just do that on both ends of the lap I can gain a ton of time. Data comes from my RaceCapture/Pro 2 and overlay is via RaceRender.
Thanks to Liam Dwyer for all the tips which taught me some new things and reminded me of some old things and got me faster. If you folks don't know Liam, he's an awesome guy and great friend, retired Marine that lost his leg in Afghanistan, and a driver for Mazda, and you might have seen him on tv:
Quick rundown of how the new mods worked:
Brakes - AWESOME. holy crap, it was like hitting a brick wall. I did not expect that much change in the braking. Data later showed I was hitting a peak of -1.6G braking, versus -1.5G from past events on the same pads but smaller rotors. Just killer, what a great unexpected upgrade. Oh, and NO cracking whatsoever which is FANTASTIC.
Air Intake System- AWESOME. We were logging ambient temps. AMBIENT. That's as good as you can get. Glad I didn't listen to all the naysayers about my design With that said... the internals of the box exploded/imploded haha. The two walls I added, with just the aluminum tape as structural support, tore themselves apart and were just sitting loose. So I was just getting cold air blowing over the air filter along with other air like from the passenger fender and probably some from the radiator, but still getting ambient temps. The escaping air pressure probably didn't help my aero though.
RaceCapture/Pro Mk2 - Worked like a charm. The 50hz GPS wasn't quite working right and I had to step down to a 10hz data rate, but after that things worked very well. Added a transmission temperature sensor and was seeing almost 280 deg F peak, so it might be time for a transmission cooling solution.
Front modified JDM Galant Knuckles - Terrific. Zero clearance issues with no spacers on the +16mm 18x12 rims and huge 315/30/18 hoosier tires. Ec17pse (Bobby Gould) did a wonderful job. Inspected them afterwards and no sign of cracking anywhere. Haven't re-checked alignment as an indication of bending, but will before VIR but I expect no changes.
Rear modified knuckles - Yeah... these didn't quite work out as planned Need more clearancing and reinforcement, or I just have to accept I need to run some spacers in the back.
Overall, I have to count this as a successful weekend. I just missed the newly set track record by thousandths, but at least we had no major mechanical failures and learned how to address another potential one for the future. We also know via data that I CAN beat that record and fairly easily at that! I think the car is really ready for VIR and going to kick some ass! The new TT2 track record there is a 1:58.8 set by a turbo'd Toyota FRS driven by an experienced Time Trial driver, but I think I beat that. Won't know until I get there though!
Ultimate Track Car Challenge and NASA Time Trials are July 17-19 at Virginia International Raceway. If you're nearby come join us! It's always a blast!
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